Visar inlägg med etikett Voleur de Roses. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Voleur de Roses. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 27 juli 2015

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Rose Privee

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rose Privee is the latest rosecomposition from the classical nichehouse L'Artisan Parfumeur. Rose Privee is a creation of Bertrand Duchaufour and Stephanie Bakouche. Earlier rosecentered fragrances from the L'Artisan are the dark and dramatic Voleur de Roses and the rose-violet powder Drole de Rose. Rose Privee is something in the territory in between despite the pink, rosy packaging which indicates a light and sheer pink rose.

Rose Privee has one of the strangest openings that I have smelled for years which is definitly positive in my book. When described it will probably not be perceived as positive but it is as the fragrance balancing on the edge to smell unplesant but don't turn over to the wrong side. Rose Privee starts with
the for roseoil typical rubbernote which very soon turns to the smell of warm tires and then transforms in something similar to the smell of catpee in dry, hayish grass. If separating the notes in this cat-accord I smell mandarine, hay and basil and it seems as theese notes blended evokes this fatal olfactory combination.

Picture: Rose Priveè
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)

After this nose-catching and challenging start, Rose Privee in its middlenotes becomes a more ordinary, rose dominated, floral (lilac, magnolia) musky blend with both fruity and herbal accents which creates a slight schizofrenic fragrance which couldn't chose which personality to be. In the basenotes there are dark notes with a dry patchouli which smell almost like dry tobbacoleaves combined with traces of basil  and amber. The somehow messy and uncertain impression of the middle- and basenotes unfortunately offsets the edgy start of the fragrance and lowers the overall impression of Rose Privee.  In the middle and basenotes there is something that reminds me of Vero Profumo Rozy Edp, probably the rose-lilac combo. Despite its messy character and the fact it's a bit annoying (the same phenomen as in Coqullite Tudor) I think Rose Privee is better than its reputation, it has got some negative comments in the blogosphere.

Rose Privee is suitable to wear for non-casual occasions year around. Sillage is medium and longevity great, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Basil, mandarine, hay, lilac, carnation, magnolia, may rose, violet leaves, patchouli, amber

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 24 februari 2014

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Quick impressions of some classic L'AP:s 1(2)

Picture: One of the L'Artisans,
Drôle de Rose
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)
After becoming disappointed with the new sub-line L'Explosions de Emotions from the old (one of the very first niche-houses, only Diptyque was earlier) reaible L'Artisan Parfumeur, I had to test/re-test some of my samples from the house to get my confidence back. Below some quick impressions of some classic L'Artisans from different genres.

Bois Farine: A 2003 Jean-Claude Ellena inspiration from an unusual tree in the Caribbian. Sweet, powdery, like flour, woody with some spices. The opening smells like peanutbutter. Delicious, mouthwatering and comforting (if properly dosed) to wear cold and grey days. Unfortunately Bois Farine now is discontinued, so it's time to stock up.

Voleur de Roses: Created by Michel Almairac as early as 1993 and it's a forerunner to the whole dark, earthy, moisty, dark, red rose and patchouli that I like so much. VdR is somehow the unpolished gem (ruby) of the genre the patchouli is dirtier and moistier, the red rose is darker and bolder than in the more polished followers such as Guerlain Rose Barbare, Juliette has A Gun Lady Vengeance, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.

Drôle de Rose: A powdery, cosmetic, lemony, cherful, sunny take on the combined violet and pink rose theme, created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996. Also a forerunner to fragrances such as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose which more formal in appearance and with more pronounced violet than in DdR and Etat Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces which is a dramatic, dark and dirty variation of violet-rose.

To be continued in the next post.