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måndag 24 juli 2017

6 Fragrances for Summer 2017

Picture: Clover 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Soon already in the late days of summer 2017, time for a list of perfumes I like for summer. And not just for this summer but for summers in general.

Reverie au Jardin (Tauer): This is imo a neglected fragrance from Swiss perfume meastro Andy Tauers earlier creations, worn by me for about ten summers now. Seems simple but is in the same time clever in construction: Lavender, greenery like clove, an outdoor, green incense and probably a woody violetnote as Mr Parfumista associates to Dior Farenheit when I'm wearing Reverie au Jardin.

Eau d'Orange Verte (Hermes): What more to say after decades with this tangy, green, bitterorange elegant "fresh" brew grounded in moss, than: A masterpiece, the best and most versatile Cologne ever.

Verveine (Heeley): Round, full, like what I imagine a green full moon in dark August would look like if such should exist. A sort of grassy-fruity green scent with what I percive as a figgy-woody accord. Delicious for summer.

Mon Patchouly (Ramon Monegal): Dark, earthy patch in some interpretations is refreshing for middle and late summerdays. Mon Patchouly is a delicious but non-sweet take on patch with its powdery, dry powdery cocabeenfacetts.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Ultra blue skies over sunbathed dunes, a loose shirt in a light, almost transparent, white, crisp egyptian cotton. The fragrance is green like grass, with a clean accord which smells almost like a green, dry, laundry detergent.

Musk Samarkand (Les Neréidés): A clean, robust white musk with something slight dirty lurking in its depts. No detergent and refreshing as a chilly summer breeze a hot sunny day. Reminds me of a budget alternative (but just as good as) to the new interpretation of Parfumerie Generales old Musc Maori 04: Le Musk et la Peau 4.1. My bottle of Musk Samarkand is an earlier version, the bottle with the bookmark angels on the sticker.

måndag 4 juni 2012

Phaedon – Verveine Figuier

Picture: Eisenkraut, Verbena officinalis, 1796,
Fig. from book Deutschlands Flora in Abbildungen,
Author: Johann Georg Sturm (Painter: Jacob Sturm)
Wikimedia Commons

Verveine Figuier is a Pierre Guillaume creation launched under the Phaedon label, a perfume joint-venture where Pierre is involved. Some fragrances are made by Pierre and some not, but as I have found Verveine Figuier is composed by PG himself.

VF starts with a light, green fignote that have some commonalities with the light, green figginess of PG:s Jardins de Kerylos. The fignote is balanced and gets a cirusy-green sparkling effect by the leafs of verbena. The green and citric notes are interacting in a quite linear formula, grounded in a light woody, white musky base.

VF:s formula seems simple and straight forward. The blend is very light to be a PG creation, it’s almost an Eau de Cologne, on my skin anyway. VF is a scent that should be splashed on to refresh during a hot summerday, and several applications will be necessary as it fades after 3-4 hours on my skin anyway. This verbena – fig styled almost colognelike blend is a good alternative to the classical citrusdominated colognes such as Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or the modern musky dominated such as Thierry Mugler Cologne. Other verbena fig styled fragrances tha comes to my mind testing VF is Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée and Heeley Verveine even if those,especially UJeM , is stronger and with a better longevity. Of the two the Heeley Verveine is most similar to Phaedon Verveine Figuier as it’s lighter and more citrus-green than the darker and denser almost ripe fig in UJeM. The musky, light woody part of VF has similarities with the great green, musky Eau de Lalique but EdL is more radiating and lasts for a whole day even in summer. Also PG:s new interpretation of Corps de Ames, the beautiful Corps et Ames Edt Apaisante features  verbena but the note is much more obvious in the CdA Edt than in Verveine Figuer.Maybe because the verbena note, just as the whole blend, is stronger in CdA Edt.

To summon up Verveine Figuer is the perfect stright forward, summery splash on, almost cologne for lazy days. Nice, dimmed and refreshing.

Rating: 3

Notes: Verbena leaves, fig leaves, fig wood, musk