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måndag 18 februari 2013

Histoires de Parfums - Veni

Picture: Bust of Gaius Julius Caesar
 Photo by Andreas Wahra, Wikimedia commons

Veni is the first fragrance in the Histoires de Parfums "cardamom trio", fragrances that highlighting different aspects of cardamom. The fragrances are inspirated of the conquests of Julius Ceasar and his celebrated words "Veni, Vidi, Vici!" .Veni is composed by Gérald Ghislain, founder and perfumer of the house Histoires de Parfums and, together with Vidi and Vici, a part of the Editions Rare line of 2012. The theme of Editions Rare 2011 was (of course) oud.

Veni, "I have come" starts with a true smell of cardamom, followed by a light and sweet flowery impression supported by different spicy notes. The caradamom is present during the whole dry down of Veni and the unusual, slight flowery, dark, a bit moisty, spicy accord are resting on a bit peppery, contrasted with sweet and resin basenotes. Even in the basenotes the cardamom note feels as natural and the other spices acts like a wellblended warming background.

To be honest, Veni doesn't induce the picture of Julius Ceasar on expedition in faraway countries. My impression of Veni is drinking a nice cup of  chai tea and eating a soft cardamom cake a cold winterday.

Veni is suitable to wear at daytime, escpecially during the colder months. The sillage is close and the longevity about twelve hours.

Those who likes Phaedon Cendres de The and also Dzhari (even if cardamom here just is a supporting note), just as Hermès Un Jardin Apres la Mousson could, even if different cardamom interpretations, also appreciate Veni (and it's sisterfrags Vidi and Vici).

Rating: 3

Notes: Cardamom, cinnamon, galbanum, lavendel, tagete, saffron, guaiac wood, patchouli, vanilla, caramel, musk, amber, benzoin, oakmoss

torsdag 6 september 2012

Ramón Monegal - Kiss My Name


Picture: Rose Champagne Bubbles
Photo by Gaetan Lee (CC-BY-2.0; CC-BY-2.5.)
Wikimedia commons some rights reserved

A fizzy, peppery tubereuse-boquet is how I percieve Ramón Monegals tubereusefragrance Kiss My Name. The initial accord reminds med of the light, sight green, tubereuse boquet of Gianfranco Ferre (the fragrance has the same name as the designer himself). But very soon a blast of light, fizzy pepper appears and takes control over the blend. This stage is close to the developement of Lovely Day and just as with that fragrance, reminds me of Un Jardin apres la Mousson by Hermès. The glimpse of something that reminds me of an almost melony note is also present in Kiss My Name as in both of the former fragrances. I don't know from which ingredient the peppery note comes from, probably there is some woody note that is not mentioned among the ingredients that produces it. To me Kiss My Name, just as Gianfranco Ferre is first of all a sort of casual-chic dry, green white flower boquet where tubereuse has a leading but not predominant role. As Kiss My Name dries down the tubereusenote gets clearer. It's a clean and nice tuby-note that never reaches the dangerous dirty, fleshy, almost putty in texture, territory. In the late drydown, Kiss My Name is very close to the fizzy,airy, peppery Un Matin d'Orage by Annick Goutal.

Kiss My Name wears well during a warm summerday and I think it's proper for daytime wear year around. As it is strong in concentration, light application is recommended. A nice, happy and easy to wear fragrance, nothing complicated even if well crafted as the whole Ramón Monegal-line.

Rating: 4
Notes: Tuberose, iris, jasmine, neroli, tolu balsam

lördag 8 oktober 2011

Phaedon

Image: Bottles and candle from Phaedon (c)

Phaedon is a new line of perfumes where at least some of the scents are created by Pierre Guillaume. According to the buzz on Basenotes, Noir Marine and Dzhari are the two creations by Pierre. Those that are not created by him, is developed under his supervision. I have recived three samples of the Phaedon perfumes from the niche perfumeshop Fragrance & Art  . Here are my first impressions:

Noir Marine: This is a wearable, stripped, stright forward version of Harmatan Noir No 11 in the Perfume Generale line. Harmatan Noir is more complex but also harder to wear with a teanote that I perceive as metallic-bloody. Noir Marine is also dominated by the minty teanote in Harmatan Noir but it's a brighter and cleaner interpretaton. More aromatic-marine in it's tonality than Harmtan that is more woody- herbal. Personally I prefer the Noir Marine over Harmatan Noir. Notes of mint, tobacco and resins.

Dzhari: This is a beautiful blend with mint (again), sweet wine with some spice and dusty notes. The minty note is smoother compared to Noir Marine but connects the perfumes in the same theme. Dzhari really smells as I perceive ancient. It justifies the inspiration of the line from Sokrates and his disciple Phaedon. To my nose there are some similarities with Midnight Sun from Aqaba, a line inspired of the ancient times of the Queen of Sheba.

Cendres de The: A clean cardamom dominated scent with some sparkling peppernotes in the background. Reminds med the cardamom in Hermès Un Jardin Après la Mousson but Centres de Thè stays true to the cardamom during it´s whole drydown. I don’t feel the tea note but as spiced tea is one of the ingredients it’s probably so well blended that the note it self don’t stand out. Centres de Thè is the best cardamom scent that I have sniffed until now.

From the samples I have tried from the Phaedon Line, my overall impression is that it is a well crafted line in the spirit of Pierre Guillaume and with some characteristics from the PG line. But the Phaedons I have tried are in general more stripped versions, focusing on a few notes, and are easier to wear for a wider audience. To me the scents is smooth and relaxing and at least Noir Marine and Dzhari makes me think of the ancient times that the line gets some of it’s inspiration from. The Phaedons are comfortable and enchanting fragrances according to my nose.

torsdag 6 maj 2010

Dagens doft - Un Jardin Après La Mousson

Försöker att gå våren till mötes med en transparant men ändå kraftig doft (på mig i alla fall). Hermès Un Jardin Après La Mousson  skapad av de transparanta dofternas mästere Jean-Claude Ellena.
Associationer: Kardemumma, havre, melon men äkta vara, inte den kemiska "calone" som stinker i så många så kallade fruity-florals och regn på torr lerjord.

Betyg: 4+