Visar inlägg med etikett The Vagabond Prince. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett The Vagabond Prince. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 10 juni 2013

Historiae - Bouquet du Trianon

Picture: Queen Marie Antoinette of France walking in the park of Trianon
with two of her children.Painting 1785 by Adolf Fredrik Werthmüller  (!751-1811)
Bouquet du Trianon is a floral woody fragrance created for Parfums Historiae by the famous nose Bertrand Duchaufour. Historiae are using a high precentage of natural fair traded esential oils in their fine fragrances.

When it comes to the inspiration to Bouquet du Trianon the story tells: "On August 15, 1774, King Louis XVI makes a wonderful gift to his wife Marie-Antoinette: "You love flowers, I have a bunch to offer you: the Petit Trianon." At Trianon Marie-Antoinette created a haven of intimacy that allowed her to escape the etiquette. She indulged her taste for countrystyle patterns and pastel colors."

Bouquet du Trianon starts with an airy and fizzy burst of greenry, some crisp flowers and most of all blackcurrant buds. The black currant is the mainplayer in the topnotes and is still clearly recognizable during the whole dry down. There is also a light, transparant, almost incenselike note that accompanying the blackcurrentnote, maybe the mint and beewax combined with the refined and smooth sandal- and cedarwood notes creates this effect. The flowers of the blend takes the centerstage somewhere in the middlenotes and are still present in the woody base. The dominating flower is a light, transparent and fizzy tubereuse, note meety and indolic, but wellbehaved and minimalistic. There is also something reminding of a pleasant, hard caramellnote. In the top- and in the beginning of the middlenotes Bouquet du Trianon seems to be a transparent version of another recent Bertrand Duchaufour creation dominated by blackcurrant: Enchanted Forest from The Vagabond Prince. It is easy to suspect that the two fragrances where created simultaneously a transparent one and a heavier one. Of the two I personally prefer Bouquet du Trianon as it blends much better with my skinchemistry. The critical Mr Parfumista complimented Bouquet du Trianon, thought there is some1980s vibe of the perfume and even found some similarities in its apperance and style, even if Bouquet du Trianon is lighter, with the great Montana Parfum d'Peau.Personally I also find some similarities with Grossmith Floral Veil and with the spirit of Golden Chypre from the same house.

Picture: Bouquet de Trianon Edt
Photo: PR Historiae (c)
Bouquet du Trianon is a perfect fragrance for officewearing, elegant and not disturbing. Despite it's transaprant character, the sillage is medium and the longevity is for almost 24h. To me Bouquet de Trianon is a very comfortable springscent, a real wristsniffer and I'm very enthusiastic about it.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, mandarin, galbanum, mint, freesia, blackcurrant bush leaf,  tuberose absolute, ylang ylang, beeswax absolute, rose, honeysuckle, vetiver, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood, cedarwood

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

torsdag 30 maj 2013

The Vagabond Prince - Enchanted Forest

Picture:The beautiful artwork bottle of Enchanted  Forest
Photo: PR The Vagabond Prince (c), all rights reserved 
Enchanted Forest is a 2012 Bertrand Duchaufour creation for the new perfumehouse The Vagabond Prince  founded by the very creative founders of Fragrantica , Elena and Zoran Knezhevich.

Enchanted Forest is an unsual fragrance, centered around the black currant accord. Even if black currant and its buds, are frequently used in different fruity and fruity green accords, that the blackcurrant rarely is the mainplayer. Another fragrance where this is the case is Lalique Amethyst which I havn't smelled. The initial accords of Enchanted Forest is like diving in a blackcurrant bush, the notes of the juicy    berries and the green tart leaves are very natural, luminous and vibrant. Probably the aldehydes helps to lift the black currant, with its intensity it could otherwise easily be cloying. When Enchanted Forest dries down in the middlenotes, the blackcurrant calms down but is still easily recognizable as the mainnote. Green light woody and fizzy notes as vetiver, pepper and especially coriander sparkels offsetted by some smooth flowery notes that just balances the blend and plays in the background. The base are slight musky dark but not heavy with distinct tart woody (fir,cedar) and resinnotes. There is also a transparant, fresh earthy, patchoulinote combined with a slight animalic vibe. The sweet notes are very subdued and not recognizable as separate notes, but they create a softness that balances the dark and  earthy woodiness.

Enhanced Forest is a fragrance that I think could be worn year around despite it evokes the image of a wild forest in early autumn to me, a cold, mossy dampness contrasted with the sunrays defying the high confiers and hitting the ground. Enhanced Forest as an idea and in its structure with green, aldehydic tartness, somehow reminds me of the earlier in 2012, Duchaufour creation for Aedes de Venustas with the same name, even if that one highlights the rhubarb.

Enhanched Forest is a strong fragrance that should be applied in moderation, if not, it could be overwhelming. The sillage is big to be a contemporary fragrance and longevity on skin is about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange, flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, rum, wine, rosemary, davana, blackcurrant buds absolute, blackcurrant, russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiver, opoponax, benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, patchouli, castoreum absolute, cedar, vanilla, musk.

Thanks to the Vagabond Prince for the sample to test.