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lördag 13 juli 2013

Fragrances of the week (28) 2013: Oliver & Co - Impression of the line

Picture: Oliver & Co Discoveryset
Photo: PR Oliver & Co, (c) all rights reserved
The Oliver & Co line definitly has its own natural smelling aromatic fresh style. Overall I find the unisex fragrances from the Oliver & Co house to be just a little bit more masculine than feminine in style (to use the stereotypes) probably because the absense of sweetness which I find carcteristic for the Olvier & Co fragrances as also the aromatic texture they all, more or less, have in common. Anyway, I think both genders should test these original creations.

All the fragrances are strong but refreshing and also long lasting which is not a common feature when it comes to fragrances with a high content of naturals. Those who like fragrances in the style of Commes des Garcons Incenseserie would probably appreciate the Olvier & Co line as they conveys the same impression but without incense as the line features other ingredients. My personal favorites are Mousse and Resina followed by La Colonia.

From Oliver & Co:s website there is possible to order a priceworthy discoveryset  which I think will last very long as each vial is 10 ml and as my 2 ml vials still lasts very well after assiduous testing.

torsdag 11 juli 2013

Oliver & Co - Resina

Picture: Resin from pine
Photo: Meanos (cc) Wikimedia Commons,
some rights reserved
Resina is a natural smelling balsamic, spicy aromatic blend from spanish nichehouse Oliver & Co and as all the fragrances created by the owner of the house; Oliver Valverde.

Resina starts with the balsamic wowen plasternote that I like so much and which is distinct during the whole dry down in Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer but in Resina it soon withdraws from the centerstage as also a almost medical aromatic blast. Then a phase with balsamic, light spicy, unsweet caramellic and light woody notes appears, the ingredients seems almost seamless blended and the fragrances is soft and less aromatic. In this stage Resina gives me the impression of a non-sweet version of Prada Candy (swe) with a note that is very close to sandalwood (but as this ingredient is not listed it has to the skillful blending that creates this effect) instead of the sweet powdery benzoin in Candy. The overall impression of Resina is a natural smelling, warm and comforting fragrance with interesting twists from the spices and resins.

Even if wearable year around Resina IMO is the most cold season friendly fragrance from Oliver & Co. Its non-swetness makes it also possible to wear during the summer even if the warmest days should be avoided.
Longevity is great, 24h and sillage is medium. Beside Mousse, Resina until now is my favorite Olvier & Co fragrance. But who knows, further testings might change this order :-)

Rating. 4+

Notes: Tolu balsam, elemi, myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, jasmine sambac, incense, benzoin, coffee, flame tree, mace, rooibos tea, tonka bean, star anise

lördag 18 maj 2013

Fragrance(s) of the week (20) 2013 -Random perfumeimpressions

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Havn't anything thought out to say perfumewise this weekend so here comes some random perfumeimpressions .

Samples that I ordered from Aus Liebe zum Duft  swiftly arrived during the week and some is already in testing on myself or familymembers. Impressions:

From the descriptions of the fragrance, Lostmarc'h Iroaz is a wild rose from the rosebushes of the shores of Brittany. This is a sort of airy, like the moist seaair, pink rose. Reminds me of the roses in Jean Patou Un Amour de Patou and Montale Crystal Flowers. A wearable, non-sweet rose.

Speaking of Montale, yesterday I couldn't resist trying one of the Montale samples I've ordered. Have sampled so many light, springappropiate fragrances the latest weeks (June will be a light fragrances reviw month) I now long for heavier stuff. Aoud Ever is a quite recent Montale blend that seems to consist of some Aoud Lime at the start lime but here added whith a dose of lemon which dominates the citric part. Then one of my favorite Montales, Amber & Spices appears but in Aoud Ever the peppery notes in the spicy mix are a bit more prounonced and are resting on a base dominated by sandalwood and of course oud.

Mr Parfumista is testing the new Comme des Garcons Black.Starts as a powerful fragrance containing elements of some other of Mr Parfumistas CdG favorites, the cool cypress and pine-like notes of Kyoto and the balsamic spice of Jaisalmer. There are also notes that resembles of a weaker and short lived version of the rough, almost burned leathernotes of one of Mr Parfumistas top favorites ever: Mona di Orio Cuir.

Myself is sampling the new Andy Tauer Noontide Petals. Starts as the powerful Incense Rosé but calms down very soon and then smells like a dimmed version of Incense Rosé with powdery accents. As the Incense Rosé accords tuning out, but still remains in the background, aldehydic flowers appears and the composition becames weak compared to the first half of the dry down. Nice fragrance but a bit messy in the same almost chaotic way as Histoires de Parfums L'Olympia Music Hall ie both these frags somehow intermediate an impression of don't be able to decide what direction to have. As I like or love almost every Tauer creation released so far, I definitly will give Noontide Petals further trials. Update May 28 2013: There was a beautiful scent lingering in a pashmina which I suspected was traces of Noontide Petals and today I have tested Noontide Petals again. This time in a lower dose than before and that was the trick. Today the fragrance was neiter messy or chaotic in the later drydown just perfect powdery, a bit soapy notes that embeds a typical Tauerstyled  accord, most similar to Incense Rosé mixed in the smoothness of luxury aldehydes. Contemporary elegance and in the same time comfort. Great, this is a 5 rated perfume for me and unfortunaly a new lemming!

Sniffing on a napkin saved since the lunch with Fragrantfanatic this Thursday where there are dots of different fragrances from the spanish house Oliver & Co. from a discoveryset that FF has borrowed from another parfumista. One of the M.O.U.S.S.E fragrances stands out from the fragrancedots and I think it's the first Mousse where the clove is very  pronounced and combined with balsamic spice as in Jaisalmer. This one could really be something! Also the balsamic dot that I think is Resina and La Colonia appeals to me. Overall, Oliver & Co. seems to be a house to explore further.

As Fragrantfanatic recently has visited Paris and there acquired a bottle of Guerlain Mayotte I'm now a happy owner of a vial of this that would be compared with its precursor Guerlain Mahora. And as FF now has a sample of Mahora, it will be very interesting to compare our findings from our respective coming side-by-side tests of these two heavy, tropical Guerlains.