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måndag 6 juni 2016

5 Early summerfragrances 2016

Picture: Ulriksdal Palace, one of the Royal Castles,
a morning in early May 2016
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Today it's Swedens nationalday! Early June with it's fresh, fragile flowers and greenery is, just as May, the most beautiful time of the year in this northen part of the globe. Flowery and light, sparkling fragrances are comforting and easy to wear. Below five reaible favourites:

Fleurissimo (Creed): This post continues in a royal setting: The wonderful green bouquet with tubereuse, violet, iris over a light ambergrisbase, was according to the storytelling from Creed, the fragrance made for and worn by Grace Kelly on her wedding with Prince Rainer of Monaco. My skin amplifies the violet/iris and the tubereuse here performs as a supporter, not the star of the show as in most fragrances with tubereuse as one of the main notes. Surprisingly there is a pleasant bananalike note contrasting and smoothing the blend, the nuance shows the tropical side of the tubereuse which is present in warm and lush tubereuse fragrances as in Le Galion Tuberéuse

Rose Essentielle Edp (Bvlgari): A sparkling blend of violet and rose in (to my nose) almost equal propotions. The violet is dominating on my skin most wearings, but sometimes the rose comes through more. Sweet, with a texture like hard candy but in the same time sort of fresh. The base is musky, slight earthy. After more then ten years on the market, Rose Essentielle is still an intriguing and very wearable fragrance.

Photo: Parfumista (c)
Jour d'Hermès Gardenia (Hermès): A tart, clean, minimalistic gardenia without the moist, earty smell of mushroom as in the heavier examples in the genre. Elegant, inoffensive and very easy to wear in most daytime ocasions. Not as grassy as the original Jour d'Hermès Edt .

Magnolia Romana (Eau d'Italie): Sharp green with almost rubbery, juicy white and yellow flowers. Sounds strange but smells so good. This is a fragrance for sunny and windy days, as there is sort of a natural flow in Magnolia Romana. An intriguing, contemporary floral.

Cristalle Edt (Chanel): A day in Cristalle is like a day in a cloud of sparkling Champagne, even if a regular workday. Retro bergamot-citrus fresh but at the same time with a distictive green, mossy body with hints of bulbfowers. A timeless creation, allways right to wear, true casual chic.

måndag 24 augusti 2015

Eau d'Italie - Acqua Decima

Picture: Acqua Decima, the color of the bottle
describes the juice perfectly.
Photo: PR Eau d'Italie (c)
Acqua Decima is the perfect summerfragrance from Eau d'Italie , dreated by Alberto Morillas. Acqua Decima was launched already 2013 and is the only Ed'I I havn't tested. Until now. The review of the new Morn to Dusk will follow later as vanilla goes well in the autumn.

Acqua Decima is said in the PR to be inspired by the scented notes which could be smelled along The Path of the Gods a mountain walk that links the Amalfi coast with the Bay of Sorrento, through cliffs in the wilderness over a glimmering blue sea. The gold of lemons and mandarins, the warmth of Neroli, the fresh coolness of petitgrain, enlivened by zesty notes of mint leaves.

Acqua Decima starts with a distinctive citrus accord, the mandarine must be the bitter version as there is almost no sweetness in the fragrance, it is of a herbal kind. Soon mint tunes in and takes the centerstage.It's not the chemical thoothpaste mint, this one is fresh and herbal. I can also smell something similar to tomatoleaves and for some moments I smell a modern version of Sisley Eau de Campagne. The herbal, minty accord, is wrapped in the citrusnotes which plays the supporting part after the very first accord.  The fragrance goes on very green, dry and quite linear. The basenotes are light woody green, constituting as the calm background to the sparkling, Sharp, just cutted greenery in the earlier stages. Overall Acqua Decima is edgy and contemporary in style, a member of the new colognes which are not as traditional in structure as the old citrus, light herbal ones. Despite classified as unisex, Acqua Decima to me is quite masculine, it's sharp and has no smothness or sweetness at all. Therefore I can't rate it after my wearing and have to rely on Mr Parfumistas judgement. Some of the other Eau d'Italies have the herbal, outdoorsy, sharpness also, I'm thinking of the original Eau de Italie and Magnolia Romana (worn by me in late spring/summer) both of them have more flowery components which creates a bit smoother, more feminine aura. When Mr Parfumista wears Acqua Decima he also detect a note similar to a lavander in the herbal accord. Overall he find it to be a well constructed fragrance, easy to wear and a fragrance that many people could like. Despite that he founds Acqua Decima a fragrance of much at it's own, there are some similarities to antoher fragrances but not so many. Mr Parfumista smells a hint from the classic cologne Bowling Green from Geoffrey Beene.
Aqua Decima is a genuine daytimefragrance for summer. The sillage is medium and the longevity for almost a day.

Rating: 4

Notes: Lemon, mandarin orange, mint, neroli, petitgrain, white wood, vetiver

tisdag 30 augusti 2011

Eau d'Italie - Jardin du Poete

För den grapefrukt, apelsin-grönblommiga Jardin du Poete har italienska nichehuset Eau d'Italie återupplivat (eller det kanske bara har legat i träda ett tag) samarbetet med den snart uttjatade supernäsan Bertrand Duchaufour.

Jardin du Poete inleds friskt, obs inte kemiskt fräscht utan just friskt, och lite bittert med en not som jag tycker liknar en blandning av apelsinblomma, apelsin och grapefrukt. När dessa noter tonar ned, men fortfarande finns i en mer nedtonad version, blommar gröna blommor och blad och något färskt örtigt ut och fortsätter grönt, behagligt, friskt under resten av dagen. Det händer helt enkelt inte mycket mer. Nyckelordet är friskt när det gäller JdP.

JdP är en välbalanserad doft av god kvalitet som passar utmärkt sommartid eller när man drömmer om sommaren under en ruggig, grå-slaskig vinterdag. Särskilt gillar jag det bitter-grapiga inslaget kombinerat med soliga apelsin och apelsinblommenoter som är särskilt tydligt i början av doften. Smickrande toppnoter där inte samma höga nivå hålls i mellan och basregistren brukar dock inte vara något för mig. Och mycket riktigt, trots framförallt en fin öppning, så klickar inte JdP till för mig, den är på något sätt alldeles för perfekt och förutsägbar. Precis som min upplevelse av en annan, om än i en annan doftfamilj, av sommarens stora och bland parfymnördar hyllade dofter, By Kilians Sweet Redemption. I skrivande stund kommer jag inte på någon annan doft som är snarlik JdP men den förmedlar lite av samma känsla (inte doft) dvs lätt grönblommig casual-chic, som Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte, även om Eau Verte är mer chic och JdP mer casual.

Tyvärr verkar det som att Eau d'Italie lite har tappat stinget. Både förra årets blommiga Au Lac och i viss mån orientaliska Baume du Doge och Magnolia Romana åren innan tycker jag har tappat den kraftullhet och originaliet som de tidiga dofterna Paestum Rose, Sienne l'Hiver och Bois d'Ombrie stod för liksom att den första vid namn rätt och slätt Eau d'Italie var en fin klsssisk citrusbaserad doft med en modern tvist. Men och andra sidan är säkert de senaste två dofterna betydligt mer säljbara en de tidiga mer extrema kompositionerna.

Betyg: 3

Noter: Grapefrukt, bitterapelsin, basilika, immortelle, angelica, peppar, vetiver, mysk, cypress