Visar inlägg med etikett La Colonia. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett La Colonia. Visa alla inlägg

lördag 13 juli 2013

Fragrances of the week (28) 2013: Oliver & Co - Impression of the line

Picture: Oliver & Co Discoveryset
Photo: PR Oliver & Co, (c) all rights reserved
The Oliver & Co line definitly has its own natural smelling aromatic fresh style. Overall I find the unisex fragrances from the Oliver & Co house to be just a little bit more masculine than feminine in style (to use the stereotypes) probably because the absense of sweetness which I find carcteristic for the Olvier & Co fragrances as also the aromatic texture they all, more or less, have in common. Anyway, I think both genders should test these original creations.

All the fragrances are strong but refreshing and also long lasting which is not a common feature when it comes to fragrances with a high content of naturals. Those who like fragrances in the style of Commes des Garcons Incenseserie would probably appreciate the Olvier & Co line as they conveys the same impression but without incense as the line features other ingredients. My personal favorites are Mousse and Resina followed by La Colonia.

From Oliver & Co:s website there is possible to order a priceworthy discoveryset  which I think will last very long as each vial is 10 ml and as my 2 ml vials still lasts very well after assiduous testing.

måndag 8 juli 2013

Oliver & Co - M.O.U.S.S.E and M.O.U.S.S.E II

PictureGewürznelkenbaum, Köhler
 Medizinal -Planzen, Franz Eugen Köhler (1897),
Wikimedia Commons
Mousse and Mousse II are slight different takes on a original fresh spicy clovetheme. Both are created by spanish indieperfumer Oliver Valverde who uses a high precentage of naturals in his, despite this, strong and lasting fragrances.

Moussse: Starts with a distinct scent of airy clove which is unsweet and natural in its interpretation. It's clean but without any detergentnotes despite its consistent supporting musky theme. Even if the clove is airy and transparent in texture, this fragrance is very strong and demands a light application. As Mousse dries down the clove is tamed by a soft sandalwood which perfectly balances the fragrance. In this stage there is a hint of the scent from a soft high quality carnation soap. To summarize Mousse it's the perfect spicy counterpart to Comme des Garcons excellent incense-pine creation Kyoto  

As Mousse is a non sweet and fresh clove it's wearable also during the summer and the musky spicy clove blooms in warm weather. Mousse is also right to wear during the rest of the year, a versatile sort of timeless ( even if contemporary I can easily image a king of the baroque-era wearing this) unisex fragrance, despite IMO, just as Kyoto, Mousse is leaning to the masculine side. Sillage and longevity (24h+) are great.

Mousse II: This is an even more airy, almost ozonic take on the original Mousse. The clove is lighter and the whole scent is brighter and the fizzy fresh notes of mint and cardamom is added. There are also a strike of the crisp green lily of the valley accord from La Colonia. Overall Mousse II is more playful, brighter, lighter not as distinctive/sharp as the original Mousse and therefore easier to wear. It's also a more feminine unisex fragrance than the original Mousse. Sillage is good and longevity for a day. Etros transparant carnation with clove, Dianthus comes to my mind when wearing Mousse II even if Dianthus is more concentrated of the carnation than its clove notes

Even if Mousse is more masculine I prefer it as it is much more original and also genuinely highlights the clove. There is no attempts to quiet down the powerful clove as I perceive as an intention in the flanker Mousse II. But Mousse II is definitly a good choice for those who prefer a more blended and tuned down perfume featuring clove.

Rating: Mousse 5, Mousse II  3+

Notes Mousse: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk
Notes Mousse II: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, cardamom, mint, lily of the valley, sandalwood, ambergris, musk

lördag 18 maj 2013

Fragrance(s) of the week (20) 2013 -Random perfumeimpressions

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Havn't anything thought out to say perfumewise this weekend so here comes some random perfumeimpressions .

Samples that I ordered from Aus Liebe zum Duft  swiftly arrived during the week and some is already in testing on myself or familymembers. Impressions:

From the descriptions of the fragrance, Lostmarc'h Iroaz is a wild rose from the rosebushes of the shores of Brittany. This is a sort of airy, like the moist seaair, pink rose. Reminds me of the roses in Jean Patou Un Amour de Patou and Montale Crystal Flowers. A wearable, non-sweet rose.

Speaking of Montale, yesterday I couldn't resist trying one of the Montale samples I've ordered. Have sampled so many light, springappropiate fragrances the latest weeks (June will be a light fragrances reviw month) I now long for heavier stuff. Aoud Ever is a quite recent Montale blend that seems to consist of some Aoud Lime at the start lime but here added whith a dose of lemon which dominates the citric part. Then one of my favorite Montales, Amber & Spices appears but in Aoud Ever the peppery notes in the spicy mix are a bit more prounonced and are resting on a base dominated by sandalwood and of course oud.

Mr Parfumista is testing the new Comme des Garcons Black.Starts as a powerful fragrance containing elements of some other of Mr Parfumistas CdG favorites, the cool cypress and pine-like notes of Kyoto and the balsamic spice of Jaisalmer. There are also notes that resembles of a weaker and short lived version of the rough, almost burned leathernotes of one of Mr Parfumistas top favorites ever: Mona di Orio Cuir.

Myself is sampling the new Andy Tauer Noontide Petals. Starts as the powerful Incense Rosé but calms down very soon and then smells like a dimmed version of Incense Rosé with powdery accents. As the Incense Rosé accords tuning out, but still remains in the background, aldehydic flowers appears and the composition becames weak compared to the first half of the dry down. Nice fragrance but a bit messy in the same almost chaotic way as Histoires de Parfums L'Olympia Music Hall ie both these frags somehow intermediate an impression of don't be able to decide what direction to have. As I like or love almost every Tauer creation released so far, I definitly will give Noontide Petals further trials. Update May 28 2013: There was a beautiful scent lingering in a pashmina which I suspected was traces of Noontide Petals and today I have tested Noontide Petals again. This time in a lower dose than before and that was the trick. Today the fragrance was neiter messy or chaotic in the later drydown just perfect powdery, a bit soapy notes that embeds a typical Tauerstyled  accord, most similar to Incense Rosé mixed in the smoothness of luxury aldehydes. Contemporary elegance and in the same time comfort. Great, this is a 5 rated perfume for me and unfortunaly a new lemming!

Sniffing on a napkin saved since the lunch with Fragrantfanatic this Thursday where there are dots of different fragrances from the spanish house Oliver & Co. from a discoveryset that FF has borrowed from another parfumista. One of the M.O.U.S.S.E fragrances stands out from the fragrancedots and I think it's the first Mousse where the clove is very  pronounced and combined with balsamic spice as in Jaisalmer. This one could really be something! Also the balsamic dot that I think is Resina and La Colonia appeals to me. Overall, Oliver & Co. seems to be a house to explore further.

As Fragrantfanatic recently has visited Paris and there acquired a bottle of Guerlain Mayotte I'm now a happy owner of a vial of this that would be compared with its precursor Guerlain Mahora. And as FF now has a sample of Mahora, it will be very interesting to compare our findings from our respective coming side-by-side tests of these two heavy, tropical Guerlains.