Visar inlägg med etikett L'Oiseau de Nuit. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett L'Oiseau de Nuit. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 31 juli 2017

Histoires de Parfums - 1740 Marquis de Sade

Picture: Portrait of Donatien Alphonse de Sade, "Marquis de Sade" (1740-1814).
The drawing dates to 1760, when the Sade was nearly 20 years old. Drawing by
Charles-Amédée-Philippe van Loo, Wikimedia commons

This review was hidden in the archives, written in ca 2012.
1740 Marquis de Sade from the for me rediscovered house of Histoires de Parfums, tested fragrances from the house cirka two years ago but it's this year I really have started to appreciate it's sometime serious and "difficult" creations. 1740 Marquis de Sade definitly belongs to the difficult category. Originally  created year 2000 by Sylvie Joudet and as I understand updated by Gérald Ghislain in 2008 it is classified as masculine but as containing some sweetness there is also women that appreciate 1740 and I will classify it as unisex but leaning to the masculine side.

1740 Marquis de Sade is a very wellblended and multifacetted fragrance on the woody-oriental-herbal-leathery theme. It's starts with boozy, slight sweet notes from the davana (artemisia) which is said to, as an ingredient, developes different on different skintypes and therefore transforms a scent to be (to some extent) personal to the wearer. There are also hints of immortelle (even if not mentioned among the ingredients) in this part of 1740. When the boozy top fades away a dray, dark chocolate note, probably a finetuned patcholuli, accented withe a minty tune, appears. There is also a pleseant spicyness from corianer and caradmom even if some dirty notes are shining through now and then. Later on, immortelle, typical housnote in several HdP creation shows up again togheter with a discrete leathernote, the woody pepper of cedar and resins, which creates a resinous and longlasting base.

1740 Marquis de Sade is very pontent and a low dose is needed to avoid smelling of an old grumpy man as Mr Parfumista accused me to do when I spritzed too much. To me four spritz is the maximum to let this well blended juice flourish. Whitin each stage of it's slow and gradually drydown, many things are happening and there is as eache of the top, middle respecitve basenotes represents an own perfume within the whole fragrance ie there is three different fragrances of the same theme whitin the 1740 Marquis de Sade. The developement is very interesting and precipitates out different by different wearings. It's not a flattering scent and as it takes some wearings to understand and appreciate 1740, it is important to don't dismissing it by the first wearing. Associations to Marquis de Sade? Not so many as 1740 reminds me of a distingued, well-behaved gentleman living in a manorhouse in the english countryside, a 19th century gentry. Maybe the chocolate note associate to de Sade as I read somewhere that he was a chocoholic. The leathernote is to gentle and polite to be associated by the games of de Sade.

Other fragrances that is partly similar to 1740 Marquis de Sade is L'Oiseau de Nuit by Parfumerie Générale especially when it comes to the sweet and boozy davananote. Also, but to a lesser extent , some of the skankiness from L'Ombre Fauve from the same house is present in 1740 Marquis de Sade.

When rating 1740 Marquis de Sade I weighs together that the wellcrafted blend (5) doesn't precipitate in the best way on me, it's a tad to masculine (3) which makes a:

Rating: 4

Notes: Artemisia  (davana), bergamot, patchouli, coriander, cardamom, cedar, labdanum, leather, elemi resin

onsdag 25 januari 2012

Parfumerie Générale - L'Ombre Fauve

Picture:  Old, Old Fairy Tales: "Beauty and the Beast" by Anne Anderson.
Beauty sat down to dinner with the beast...Drawing: Anne Anderson (1874-1930)
Wikimedia Commons

Scroll down for an english version.

L'Ombre Fauve "Bestens skugga" är verkligen ett passande namn åtminstone om man går efter inledningen av Parfumerie Générales ambra med rökelseträ accentuerade doft. I starten luktar den ovädrad gammal klädkammare där en eller annan gammal, lite torr, päls hänger. Det är en torr, pälsig doft som även om den nog kan verka frånstötande för en del, ger en spännande inledning av denna fint komponerade doft. Allteftersom de instängda noterna vädras ut blir L'Ombre Fauve mer konventionell även om den i sann PG anda aldrig blir en vanlig doft. L'Ombre Fauve är en doft som hela tiden kittlar min fantasi, något som för mig är ett kännetecken på en bra doft. I nästa fas inträder söta, lätt vaniljiga noter och ett stänk av den aprikosigt, fruktiga noten av artemisia som finns i L'Oiseu de Nuit, se review häromdagen. Sedan trokar L'Ombre Fauve ned i en varmt, ambrerande, torrt sandelträig doft med en fin och mycket behaglig pudrighet. Lite dammig pälsighet lurar fortfarande i bakgrunde även om L'Ombre Fauve i den här fasen känns mer lik andra fina ambradofter.

 L'Ombre Fauve är ett riktigt förvandlingsnummer, börjar som de håriga besten som kryper fram i sin håla och slutar nästan som en elegant dam. Skönheten och odjuret í samma doft. På något vis saknar jag den brutala starten när L'OF tonat ut i de bärbara stadierna när den blivit en elegant och retrolik doft. Den påminner mig i den här fasen om en modern variant av Carons Nuit de Noël. Nuit de Noël skapades ursprungligen som en pälsdoft när den kom ut 1924. Under 1920-talet var det vanligt att man parfymerade själva pälsen. Nuit de Nöel innehåller precis som L'Ombre Fauve, en diskret pälsig ton .

L'Ombre Fauve passar perfekt kyliga och mörka vinterdagar och kvällar.

L'Ombre Fauve, "The Shadow of the Beast" is really a fitting name, at least if you judge by the topnotes of this Parfumerie Générale amber, incense accented scent. It starts smelling like an old storms wardrobe in which one or another old, dusty, dry fury-coats are hanging. This dusty, dirty, dry, fury smell, even if it probably may seem repugnant to some, provides a fascinating introduction to this well constructed, interesting and fascinating fragrance. As the unaired waredrobe notes are blown out, L'Ombre Fauve becomes more conventional, although in true PG spirit it will never be an ordinary fragrance. L'Ombre Fauve tickels my imagination during it's whole drydown, and that's the ultiamte sign of a good perfume to me. The next phase begins with some hints of light vanilla notes and also a hint of apricots, which is the fruity note of artemisia, also available in L'Oiseu de Nuit, see my review earlier this week. In the basenotes L'Ombre Fauve drys down into a warm, ambery, dry woody scent with a nice and very pleasant powdery feeling of sandalwood. Some of the dusty furiness is still lurking in the background, even if L'Ombre Fauve in this phase feels more similar to other fine amber fragrances.
L'Ombre Fauve is something of a metamorphosis, in the beginning a hairy beast that crawls out of its cave and ends up almost as an elegant lady. Beauty and the Beast in the same scent. Somehow I miss the brutal start when L'Ombre Fauve has faded out in the more conventional stages as a more polished, elegant and retro fragrance, reminding me of a contemporary version of Caron Nuit de Noël. Nuit de Noël by the way, was created as a fur fragrance when it first came out 1924. During the 1920s it was quite common to perfume the fury coats, and Nuit de Noël just as L'Ombre Fauve.
provides a matching discreet furry note.


L'Ombre Fauve is perfect to wear in cold and dark winter days and nights.

Notes: Rökelseträ, patchoulli, mysk, ambra, trä /incense, patchouli, musc, amber, woody notes
Rating: 5

måndag 23 januari 2012

Parfumerie Générale - L'Oiseau de Nuit

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Scroll down for an english version.

Pierre Guillaumes L'Oiseau de Nuit ska vara något av en light-läder och något lätt-lädrigt finns det nog i denna nattfågel. Men främst finns där en fin kittig not som jag tycker är trevlig i dofter. Den kittiga noten finns också i Chanels Allure Sensuelle och i Serge Lutens ekträ doftande Chêne. Så därför känns L'OdN ganska bekant. En annan not som är tydlig i L'OdN är en mörkt, dov, fruktighet som kommer av davana extrakt (artemisia). Det finns också en lite jordig ton i L'OdN. Den påminner också om en mer feminin, sötare och snällare variant av PG:s L'Ombre Fauve.

För mig är L'OdN en mörkt, blå doft som faktiskt ger nattassociationer. Doften är komfortabel och mörkt, aprikosmarmeladigt söt, sammansatt av fina ingredienser av hög kvalitet. Men samtidigt känns den lite rörig och splittrad, som om den inte kan bestämma sig utan ska vara så mycket på en gång, lite som en splittrad tonåring. Både L'Ombre Fauve, Allure Sensuelle och Chêne är mycket mer vuxna och bestämda i sin karaktär, de kör sina egna race med tydliga mål i sikte. Men det här är som L'OdN uppträder på min hud, den är säkert helt suberb på många andra. L'OdN passar bäst höst och vinter och är bärbar vid de flesta tillfällen. Projektionen är ganska låg, något av en skinscent på mig, och hållbarheten på huden är fullt tillräcklig.

L'Oiseau de Nuit  by Pierre Guillaume is something of a light leather and some delicate leather there certainly is in this night bird. But mostly there is a putty, slight sweet, woody, note that I think is so nice in fragrances. That putty note is also available in Chanel's Allure Sensuelle and Serge Lutens oak scented Chene. So that's probably why L'OdN  is quite familiar. Another note that is clear in L'OdN is a dark, subdued, fruitiness (as dried dates) that comes from the Davana extract (artemisia). There is also a slightly earthy tone of L'OdN that recalls me of PG L'Ombre Fauve. And to me L'OdN is something of aa more feminine, prettier and easier version of the dusky PG L'Ombre Fauve.

To me, L'OdN is a dark blue fragrance that actually gives associations of the night, just as the picture above. The scent is comfortable and dark, sweet like apricot jam and as PG:s generally are, composed of high quality ingredients. But at the same time it feels a bit cluttered and fragmented, as if it can not decide how to evolve, a bit like a lost teenager that want's to be so much at once. Both L'Ombre Fauve, Allure Sensuelle and Chene are much more adult and definite in their character, they are running their own race with a clear goal in sight. But this is as L'OdN appears on my skin, it is certainly quite superb on other skin chemistrys. L'OdN is best suited for autumn and winter and wearable for most occasions. The sillage is quite low, almost a skinscent to me, and the longevity good but not outstanding.


Rating: 4

Noter: Labdanum, davana extrakt, benzoin, läder/leather