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måndag 30 januari 2017

Jehanne Rigaud - Imperial Poudré

Picture: Bianca Castafiore
"Milanese Nigthingale" apperant in several albums
of  "Les aventures de Tintin" created by Hergé
(Georges Remi)
Picture borrowed from Comicvine
Jehanne Rigaud is perfumehouse based in Grasse. The inspiration comes from the treasure of vintage perfumes. The style of the house reminds me of Les Nereides, which also provides a range of robust, vintagestyled perfumes. There are also connections to the Oriza L.Legrand style even if find that house a bit less loud and maybe a bit more refined. Imperial Poudré is the first Jehanne Rigaud perfume I've tested.

Imperial Poudré starts with a blast of powder, it's dry and gunpowdery in style and applied with a gigant powderpuff with creamcolored fluff. The dry gunpowder smell reminds me of the dry gunpowder in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre. After a while flowery elements balanced by a delicate, a bit earthy but flowery iris shows up, reminding me of Lorenzo Villoersi Teint de Neige, soon also sweet almond and warm heliotrophe appears. The more Imperial Poudré dries down, the more putty and moist in texture the powder emerges. A big retrostyled musky note supports and creates dept to the other notes during the whole dry down even if more present the longer Imperial Poudré has developed, it dominates in the latest stage. In the basenotes also an intriguing jasmine and rose combo appears which smells clearly vintage, it's a distinct animalic touch in the accord, probably the musk and jasmine contributes to that. In this stage I associate Imperial Poudré to Oriza L.Legrand Jardins d'Armride even if the special accord described is missed in the latter.
Picture: Imperial Poudré
Photo: PR Jehanne Rigaud (c)
Imperial Poudré is a "grand" fragrance, a perfume that makes a statement. It's an evening perfume, a perfume for a ball or the Opera, I can imagine an opera diva wearing this, Bianca Castafiore is the incarnation of Imperial Poudré. Of course one can wear it during daytime but than has to be very careful in application, a litte goes for long. It's a fragrance for the cold months, I suspect it could be cloying in the summer, except for a really cold early summer evening of the swedish type. Sillage is big and the longevity for over 24h. Its a very feminine perfume.

Imperial Poudré is an extreme fragrance of a type which almost isn't produced today. It's as Imperial Poudré originates from another century, a batch was forgotten in some warehouse and now showing up on the market. It's pushy on the verge to vulgar, not in the trashy but more in the nouveau riche way. Imperial Poudré definitly has its own personality and stands out from the crowd, which I really appreciate. Unfortunately Imperial Poudré dosen't mix well with my chemisty and therefore doesn't reach the highest score in my subjective rating.

Rating: 4

Notes: Ylang-ylang, iris, vanille, almond, powder, florals, musk, jasmine, rose, heliotrope

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

måndag 25 januari 2016

UNUM - Opus 1144

Picture: Central tympanum, the Western (Royal) Portal at cathedral of Chartres (ca 1145). These architectural statues are the earliest Gothic sculptures and
were a revolution in style and the model for a generation of sculptors.

Photo: Cancre (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia commons
Opus 1144 is the second fragrance from the Italian nichhouse UNUM. Opus 1144 is inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and culture.Just as with LAVS, Opus 1144 is created by Filippo Sorcinelli with help form the secret parfumer.

Starts like a natural lemony (not chemical lemon pledge) contemporary Shalimar without the animalic notes in the original one and less vanillic then the "Route" Shalimars-line. In the Opus 1144 middlenotes the powder intesifies and becomes deeper, a sort of wet, chalky, putty powder. Now the vanilla also intensifies, probably because a clear musky note, complementing the discrete, cold flowers which are also present. In this stage Opus 1144 reminds me of a more vanillic and less flowery Oriza L. Legrand  Jardins D'Armide .  Also the oriental vanilla Kèora from Jean Couturier comes to my mind. As Opus 1144 dries further down it becomes darker, deeper, balsamic, resin and ambery now with slight salty, animalic notes from the ambregris. Tanken as a whole Opus 1144 is quite linear even if the fragrance changes to deeper nuances as it dries down.
Picture: Unum Opus 1144
Photo: PR Unum (c)
Even if classified as unisex, Opus 1144 to my nose is very feminine, like a fluffy angorajumper. Unfortunately, Opus 1144 doesn't remind me of medival times at all, to me it's more of a fragrance for a very feminine and elegant lady. The concept is not new, this is a classical fragrance directly in the footsteps of Shalimar. Opus 1144 powdery elegance is combined with a certain cosy comfort. It's perfect for autumn and winter, could be worn during the day but most people would classify it as an evening perfume. Sillage is medium+ and longevity overnight, a cosy, lemony, powdery, vanillc accord remains after 24 h. This is strong stuff (perfume strength) and one has to apply sparingly.

Those who like powdery fragrances as Huitème Art Poudre de Riz which is less sweet than Opus 1144 as also deep, woody vanillas like Montale  Boisé Vanille will probably also like Opus 1144.

Rating: 4

Notes: Jasmin, mandarin, elemi, bergamot, iris, orchid, cashmere wood, musk, ambregris, vanilla, benzoin, leather, sandalwood

måndag 26 januari 2015

Oriza L.Legrand - Héliotrope Blanc

Picture: Héliotrope Blanc
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand
Héliotrope Blanc is a recreation of a 1886 Oriza L.Legrand release on the sweet. powdery heliotrope-theme. Responsible for the recreation is as always, Oriza co-owner Hugo Lambert.

Héliotrope Blanc starts powdery mixed with the orangeblossom/violet. The powder is of the dry gunpowder type which is clearly present in fragrances such as Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige and Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Ambre, especially in the topnotes. After a while a bit strange, not at all unpleseant, vegetal note appears as some mouldering leaves where thrown into the brew. The vegetal note soon steps in the background and the powdery flowers continues featuring the sweet, but not sugary sweet, warm heliotrope. Tonkabean is also prominent in some stages. From the middlenotes to the late drydown in the basenotes where Héliotrope Blanc is secured with the typical Oriza ricepowdernote. Héliotrope Blanc makes an overall linear impression, no particular twists and changes, but cosy and nice to wear. When it comes to other Orizas, Héliotrope Blanc in style most reminds me of the more intricate Jardins D'Armide. Another fragrance with similarites to Héliotrope Blanc is Parfums de Nicolaï Kiss me tender, which is sweeter, cookielike and smells as it is edible.

Héliotrope Blanc has close sillage and god overday longevity. Suitable for most seasons and occasions but would not be recommended for the warmest months. A good, easy to wear, Oriza styled fragrance but not as intricate as especially the earliest  re-releases from the house.

Rating: 4 (2015)  /5 (2016)

Reassessment February 2016: Wearing Heliotrope Blanc is like relaxing in a cloud of fluffyness, HB is incredibly cozy and smells just fab. An uncomplicated fragrance which creates a cherful mood. Perfect for grey days and Mondays.

Notes: Orangeblossom, violetleaf, almond, heliotrope, iris, mimosa, musk, risepowder, benzoin, tonkabeans

torsdag 28 augusti 2014

Favorite Orizas

Picture: The crest of Oriza L.Legrand
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand
As mentioned before, as I like retrostyled fragrances, the fragrances of Oriza L.Legrand are among my best findings during the latest years. The Oriza fragrances are all wellblended, of a good quality and which to prefer is not a matter of uneven quality among the fragrances, it's just ones personal preferences. My top three favorite Orizas (so far) are:

Oeillet Louis XV "The Oriza Carnation"; powdery, tart light caranation
Rêve d'Ossian "The Oriza Amber"; balsamic, tender, comforting
Horizon "The Oriza Patchouli"; very well rounded patch, one of the best patchoulis on the market

But I also would be pleased to wear:

Relique D'Amour "The incense Oriza"; incense in the colder, green pine-y, sub-family
Déjà le Printemps "The green Oriza"; crispy, springtime bulbflowers
Jardins D'Armide "The powdery Oriza"; an esteemed member of the elegant ladylike, aldehydic family

For Mr Parfumista

Chypre Mousse "The chypre/fourgé Oriza" The best Oriza so far, very original, no smell alikes (from what I have smelled) expect Kerosene Creature which has some similar notes, but not as balanced as in Chypre Mousse.
Vetiver Royal Bourbon "The vetiver Oriza" One of the very best vetivers on the market.

Chypre Mousse is the favorite of the very picky Mr Parfumista followed by Royal Vetiver Bourbon.
Looking forward to the coming recontructions/recreations from this quality house.

The Orizia L.Legrand fragrances are available at Fragrance & Art as also the Oriza L.Legrand  webshop.

torsdag 28 november 2013

Oriza L.Legrand - Jardins D'Armide

Picture: A rose from Armidas garden
Painting by Marie Spartali Stillman (1894)
Wikimedia commons
The original  Jardins D'Armide was released in 1905 and the current version is an interpretation of the original that preserves the old school feeling in a contemporary wearable way. The re-working is performed by Oriza L.Legrand houseperfumer Hugo Lambert. Jardins D'Armide is inspired of the garden in the story of Armida, a sacaran sorceress who during the First Crusade captured the Roman soldier Rinaldo and created an enchanted garden where she held him a lovesick prisoner. 

Jardins D'Armide starts dry powdery with a furry note, but in the same time a bit cold, like the texture and feeling of an orchid. A sweet note, reminding me of candy also appears in a very pleasanst way. The roses are dry, like dried rose petals, and a bit tart. When Jardins D'Armide developes a wellblanced, still cool, slight spicy, flowery heart appears soon followed by supporting sweeter and warmer notes. For a short while a very realsitic almond note glimpses by followed by powdry tonka and a pleasant musky base in which an almost geraniumgreen, tart note are apperant on my skin. The powder of Jardins D'Armide is not dominating, it's not the heavy powdery/soapy aldehydes of for example Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige or Cartier Baiser Volé, the powder is just an accent, not the theme of the whole parfume. Jardins D'Armide is a retro perfume that in apperance somehow reminds me of one of the Grossmiths I think it is Hasu-no-Hana that comes to my mind. Another perfume which is more close in what it smells like is Profumi del Forte Roma Imperiale but without the slight dirty notes which is lurking in the latter.
Picture: Jardins D'Armide -another tempting bottle
from Oriza L.Legrand
Photo: PR Oriza L.Legrand (c)
As all Orizas, a wellblended and balanced perfume, Jardins D'Armide has a distinct sillage and longevity up to 24h even if discrete trails at that stage. A powerfragrance with a demanding appeal, appropriate for most elegant occasions but also in small doses, for officewear.

Rating: 4

Notes: Dry potpourri rose, orange blossom, iris powder, iris, violet, wisteria, carnation, honey, almond, tonka been, musk

Sample avaible at Fragrance & Art