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lördag 29 december 2018

Best of 2018


Picture: Cap Néroli
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)
Picture: Néroli Intense
Photo: PR Parfums Nicolaï (c)
As 2018 should be the year wearing from my own perfume wardrobe, I only tested a few perfumes launched during the year. Therefore I couldn't announce a winner in "Best of 2018" even if there where some that I enjoyed and will write about below. Of course both the nérolis Cap Néroli and Néroli Intense from the reliable quality house Parfums de Nicolaï were great.

I also enjoyed Atelier Cologne Iris Rebelle very much, the Rebelle is my favorite from the AC line together with Café Tuberosa which was launched in 2017.
Picture: Iris Rebelle
Photo: PR Atelier Cologne (c)
Picture: Rose Rouge
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)
Picture: Gucci Guilty
Absolue pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)


Gucci Guilty Absolue pour Femme is in the dark patchouly contemporary chypre genre that I appreciate much, here with a juicy blackberry touch. Even if good it's not reaching  the level of Gucci Guilty Absolue pour HommeRose Rouge from Van Cleef & Arpels was another nice addition this year which also has some dark tangy fruit involved. The new variation of Coco Mad,  Coco Mademoiselle Intense  (which I wear today) is the winner (of the few I've sniffed) in the dark patchouly, contemporary chypre genre, at least for me, an  admirer of the Chanel style.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle Intense
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Picture: Nomade
Photo: PR Chloé (c)
  
Picture: Flerur d'Argent
Photo: PR Miu Miu (c)
Picture: Ombré Leather
Photo: PR Tom Ford (c)
 

Other good releases in 2018 were Miu Miu Fleur d'Argent  a musky, cold, grand floral and the quiet and floating Chloé Nomade slight mossy and suedelike. A 2018 release   that Mr Parfumista appreciate much is Tom  Ford Ombré Leather even if he likes Tuscan Leather better, the dept, strenght and longevity of TL is better than OL.                   
 

Picture: Eau de Citron Noir
Photo: PR Hermès (c)
A fragrance that confuses me among the  launches is Hermès Eau de Citron Noir. On  me it smells as sort of a peppery hell, on my son it smells really good, like a sundried, salty, lime infused piece of wood on a sandy seashore.



 
Addition on 31 December 2018: I knew there was some good launch I've forgotten when I wrote this entry and today I'm remember which one, when reading the best of 2018 on Bois de Jasmin. It's Hermès Cédre Sambac which is actually no 1 of the ones I've tested 2018. Probably I forgot about it as there was only a only a brief test, a single spritz and a scentstrip at NK departmentstore. So maybe I can't include it as properly tested but who cares when it comes to this beauty, a clean woody jasmin that somehow reminds me of an upscale variation on Cacharel Scarlett a fragrance that i didn't like in it's heydays.

Picture: Hermessence Cédre Sambac
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2019!  

söndag 30 september 2018

5 fragrances for Fall

Picture: From a walk in the hoods
a crisp, sunny, autumn Sundaymorning 2018
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The early autumn month of September has (almost) passed, most sunny and crisp. Probably it's therefore I still don't crave for the dark, thick and heavy frags in the oriental genre. Instead there are most lighter fragrances I've wearing during the last month, fragrances which at least some of them are good examples of transition fragrances:

Iris Rebelle (Atelier Cologne): This is my new favorite iris. Light with a very pleasant opening smelling of fresh baby carrots. Then a beautiful, clean iris appears, wrapped in smooth citric notes.

Nomade (Chloé): The best mainstream release this year , at least from the not so many I've smelled. Like a transparent and contemporary version of Jean Couturier Coriandre. Coriander and moss with a ceratin warmth added to it by delicate soft flowers and light spices. Incredible longevity for such a transparent styled creation.

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Edt (Annick Goutal): This is perhaps the messanger of the real autumn in the top 5. That even if the Edt of this elegant, dark, retro patchoulibased beuaty is more transparent than the Edp. A frag that boosts ones confidence. Full review (in swedish) here.

Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): What a comforting beauty! A dark oriental floral with chypre vibes. The coffee and cacao are not sharp or sticky, they blends very balanced with the tuberose in a retrostyled accord. The tuberose dosen't stand out as a flower, it's just a part of the dark blend.

Fathom V (BeauFort): This damp, green, cold, watery, earthy creation reminds me of late winter/early spring but I crave this utterly intriguing composition for fall also. Full review here.