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torsdag 24 december 2020

The fragrances of Christmas Eve 2020

Picture: In the the wood 2020
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and ca -2 to -5 C the first winterday until yesterday there was autumn, grey, rainy and warm + 5- +10 C) of this strage year 2020 is the relaxed and elegant new Puredistance Rubikona. A suitable scent for autumn with it's fresh earthy and green accord surounded and contrasted by smooth and almost creamy flowers. A contemporary green chypre without the heavy animalic/mossy tinge which is often present in the classic chypres and may frighten many customers of today. No such heavy traces in the sparkling Rubikona, the perfect glowing gem. Mr Parfumista is wearing one of his favorites Tom Ford Tuscan Leather Intense a smoother and more elegant version of Tuscan Leather, with almost boozy notes of davana instead of the raspberrynote of the rougher original. The youngsters are wearing Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur respectively Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last seventeen Christmas Eves: 

2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 
2005: Nuit de Noël, Caron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

söndag 29 april 2018

Olfactory dessert

Picture: Olfactory dessert April 28, 2018
Photo: Parfumista (c)
As mentioned several times before in this blog, in this houshold there are very rarely desserts served after weekend dinners (only when we have guests). Instead Mr Parfumista often insists on sniffing/analyzing fragrances. As he in 9 of 10 times takes the initiatve to this "dessert", the inhabitants of his fragrance wardrobe are overrepresented. Yesterday evening there was two themes:

1) The frequently occurring comparison between two of Mr Parfumistas wardrobe staples Tom Ford Tuscan Leather (TL) and Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather  (CL) similar in style but both definitly needed. The role model Tuscan Leather is darker, denser, thicker, with smokey, tobacco, leathery notes, like a well worn bikers leatherjacket. TL also reminds me of a polished sibling to Mona di Orios wild Les Nombres d'Or Cuir. When it comes to CL the weird thing is that I always smell the raspberry which is a note in the Tuscan Leather pyramide and not mentioned in the CL pyramide and in TL I can hardly smell the raspberry at all. CL is more transparent in style, with an uplifting citiric aura which is not smelling citrus, it's blended in the texture per se, adding some sparkle to the brew. The leather in CL is the fine and noble leather, the inside of an exclusive handbag.
2) The random fragrance theme, which just occuring, was yesterday triggerd by Mr Parfumistas testing of Parfums de Nicolaï new Cap Néroli. He really likes it and said he will rather wear it than "that sample I was thinking of maybe buying a FB of ". I immediately thought he ment  MFK APOM Pour Homme which he has sampled lately but to my initial surprise, not when thinking twice, he brought out PFM Geranium pour Monsieur. Geranium is a note which is present in the typical Nicolaï "houseaccord", it's not mentioned in the notelist of Cap Néroli even if I suspect it's there as a part of the baseaccord. The other fragrance Mr Parfumista related to after a days wearing of Cap Néroli was Deco London Lawrence. Also a fragrance with a distinct dose of geranium, special and retro smelling, salty and dry like old-fashioned bath salts. These associations shows that one should not limit oneself to compare a certain fragrance to those in the same, in this case, neroli category, one should experience fragrances without any limitations in the mindset, which is hard to achieve.

And when it comes to Cap Néroli, a full review will follow probably after the next weekend when my birch pollen allergy hopefully has calmed down so I can smell and evalute this beautiful fragrance properly.