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måndag 17 juli 2017

Carner Barcelona - Sweet William (Floral Collection)

Picture: Sweet William
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)

Sweet William is Carner Barcelonas modern interpretation of the old-fashioned fragrance floral concept of carnation. Perfumer is Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

Sweet Williams starts very attractive, like a light, fresh, dry, almost ozonic carantion, as wild carnations in a field a sunny and windy day. The texture is of paper. Even if bright and high in the octaves of the fragrancescale, Sweet William is not shrill or annoying. There is nothing of the traditional dense and dark carnationfragrance, heavy supported with clove. Anyway, there is a touch of spice in Sweet William, but light and sparkling from the wellbalanced harmony of white pepper and cardamon. After the topnotes, Sweet William becomes less papery in etxture and a pleasant tangy, slight leafy note with sort of clean earthy glimpses, appears, maybe hints of the tobbaccoflower. This gives the fragrance a deeper contrast and the pleasant tangy accord is the mainplayer together with the clean carnation for the rest of Sweet Williams drydown. There is also a touch of something that reminds me of a natural smelling pearnote, not the chemical cloying version, and also some light woody rosy touches are also present. The base is light ambery together with sort of a clean resin note.

When comparing to the classics, Sweet William could be the modern Caron Bellodgia in Edt version, it has the same light and tonality even if Bellodgia is spicier and if it has a colour, I imagine Bellodgia as orange and Sweet William as bright red. Oeillet Sauvage from L'Artisan Parfumeur in current version, has similarities with Sweet William with the fresh, light, bright and almost sparkling opening and in the overall light and airy impression. Etro Dihantus also comes to my mind when it comes to the light and bright style.

Sweet William is a pleasant, mostly linear, versatile, non-complicated carnationfragrance which is not as challenging or demanding as classic carnationfragrances. It's very easy to wear and it's a carnation for summer and daytime wearing. Sillage is close and longevity for a day. The most unisex of the three fragrances in the Floral Collection even if leaning slight to the feminine side.

Rating: 4

Notes: White pepper, cardamom. cinnamon bark, galangal, dianthus, ylang-ylang, rose water, tobaccoflower, ambrarome, iris, styrax, vanilla

måndag 21 mars 2016

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Oeillet Sauvage (new version)

Picture: Dianthus caryophyllus
Photo by
 撮影者:カールおじさん (cc)
Wikimedia.com, some rights reserved
L'Artisan Parfumeur Oeillet Sauvage created by Anne Flipo, was first released in year 2000, then discontinued, probably because of the though IFRA restrictions against the substances creating the scent of carnation. Now it's relaunched and the review is of the current version, I have not tested the vintage.

Oeillet Sauvage starts with a crisp, papery, carnation note. It's like the name implies, like wild, intensive red carnations, growing in a field surronded by fresh and dry hay where the smells mingles a windy summerday alternating sun with clouds in the sky. Oeillet Sauvage smells distinct of carantion, no dark or cloying clove seems to be unvolved. It's not as spicy as many traditional carnation, here the flower itself is highlighted even if other flowers and notes are supporting, they not overrides in any stage of the developement of the fragrance. A light powdery finish are persent but not as clear as in Oriza L.Legrand Oeillet Louis XV which ha similariteis in the interpretation of the flower but is much more of a mulitflower powder puff. Compared to the other Oriza L.Legrand carnation fragrance Royal Oeillet and also the great carnation of Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale the two latter are darker, balsamic and overall more complicated. Oeillet Sauvage is not as peppery and diluted as another carnation on the lighter end of the spectra, Etro Dianthus or not as old world smelling as Caron Bellodgia.
PictureOeillet Sauvage (current version)
Photo: PR L'Artisan Parfumeur (c)
Oeillet Sauvage is a cheerful, easy to wear carantion which is suitable for daytime wear year around, Royal Oeillet and Oeillet Bengale is autumn/winterfragrances or for chilly summer evenings. Sillage is medium and longevity for more than a day. Oeillet Sauvage is a well made, uncomplicated, contemporary carnation which is definitely worth trying for those appreciate carnation.

Rating: 4+

Notes: Pink pepper, rose, carnation, ylang-ylang, lily, wallflower, morning glory, resin, vanilla

måndag 8 juli 2013

Oliver & Co - M.O.U.S.S.E and M.O.U.S.S.E II

PictureGewürznelkenbaum, Köhler
 Medizinal -Planzen, Franz Eugen Köhler (1897),
Wikimedia Commons
Mousse and Mousse II are slight different takes on a original fresh spicy clovetheme. Both are created by spanish indieperfumer Oliver Valverde who uses a high precentage of naturals in his, despite this, strong and lasting fragrances.

Moussse: Starts with a distinct scent of airy clove which is unsweet and natural in its interpretation. It's clean but without any detergentnotes despite its consistent supporting musky theme. Even if the clove is airy and transparent in texture, this fragrance is very strong and demands a light application. As Mousse dries down the clove is tamed by a soft sandalwood which perfectly balances the fragrance. In this stage there is a hint of the scent from a soft high quality carnation soap. To summarize Mousse it's the perfect spicy counterpart to Comme des Garcons excellent incense-pine creation Kyoto  

As Mousse is a non sweet and fresh clove it's wearable also during the summer and the musky spicy clove blooms in warm weather. Mousse is also right to wear during the rest of the year, a versatile sort of timeless ( even if contemporary I can easily image a king of the baroque-era wearing this) unisex fragrance, despite IMO, just as Kyoto, Mousse is leaning to the masculine side. Sillage and longevity (24h+) are great.

Mousse II: This is an even more airy, almost ozonic take on the original Mousse. The clove is lighter and the whole scent is brighter and the fizzy fresh notes of mint and cardamom is added. There are also a strike of the crisp green lily of the valley accord from La Colonia. Overall Mousse II is more playful, brighter, lighter not as distinctive/sharp as the original Mousse and therefore easier to wear. It's also a more feminine unisex fragrance than the original Mousse. Sillage is good and longevity for a day. Etros transparant carnation with clove, Dianthus comes to my mind when wearing Mousse II even if Dianthus is more concentrated of the carnation than its clove notes

Even if Mousse is more masculine I prefer it as it is much more original and also genuinely highlights the clove. There is no attempts to quiet down the powerful clove as I perceive as an intention in the flanker Mousse II. But Mousse II is definitly a good choice for those who prefer a more blended and tuned down perfume featuring clove.

Rating: Mousse 5, Mousse II  3+

Notes Mousse: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk
Notes Mousse II: Lime, aldehydes, clove, lavander, cardamom, mint, lily of the valley, sandalwood, ambergris, musk

torsdag 30 augusti 2012

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Soie Rouge

Picture: Gartennelke (Dianthus caryophyllus)
Photo: Darkone (cc) Wikimedia Commons, some rights reserved

MPG:s Soie Rouge is one of several fragrances that was launched when Jean Laporte started the MPG house in 1988. Soie Rouge is MPG::s interpretation of the, to my nose, difficult note carnation. I'm not particulary fond of carnation dominated fragrances,Carons Bellodgia is to strong and clovy, Etros Dianthus too clovy and Serge Lutens Vitrioil d'Oeillet to weak on the cranation.

Soie Rouge starts with somthing like a dry fruity mess accompanied by a slight laudry/detergent smell. Fortunately this part is passing quickly and than a more pleasent note that seems familiar to the passionflower in MPG Fraiche Passiflore passes by. After fifteen to thirty minutes the carnation takes the centerplace and the fruity notes are tuned down to a supporting background. The carnation is without that mandatory clove which I find to be a great relief. A clean carnation supported by a soft, dimmed fruitiness and a something smooth, creamy, that reminds me of a rose note, even if it's not among the ingredients. All the notes are resting on a rather pale musky, sandalwoody base. Soie Rouge recalls memories from my childhood, from dinners in my grandmothers beautiful Jugendhaus. Probably  handsome aunt Birgit was the one that wore the carnation, maybe Bellodgia. My own mother was even then faithful to Dior; mostly Diorissimo but also Miss Dior, Dioressence and Diorama. How I wish she hadn't use up those bottles....

Soie Rouge is a good carnation, the best tested so far to me. I like that it's not paired and soaked with clove and more true to the flower. The blend is soft and very polite to be a MPG of 1988, the sillage is very colse to the skin and there is some longevity issues. But on the other hand, I have put Soie Rouge on a hard test: Shuffling heavy snow during an hour in the cold swedish winter, it is probably not fair to judge.

Update August 2012: Fortunately the winter has not arrived yet here in the north, there is still summer :-) This review was written when I tested Soie Rouge last winter and has been waiting in the archives since then.

Rating: 3

Notes: Pineapple, dried fruits, carnation, iris, jasmine, heliotrophe, apricot, musk, sandalwood, amber