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måndag 17 november 2014

By Kilian - Smoke for the Soul

Picture: Kilian himself personify
his new line - Addicted State of Mind
Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)
Smoke for the Soul is one of three fragrances that constitutes the start of a new By Kilian subline called "The addicted state of mind.  Smoke for the Soule is created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.

Smoke for the Soul starts cold and slight mentholic, probably from the eucalyptus, soon a bitter citric note appears,  followed by a note close to dry, unsweet liquorice. After a while the smoke appears, a smoke similar to the smell of a forest fire. When the smoke subsides, the cold green mentholic accord comes forward again, accompanied by a natural smelling cardamon note. There is also something that smells similar to wet tobaccoleaves glimpsing in the background. The overall structure is sharp, woody, cold spicy/herbal.
Picture: Smoke for the Soul
Photo: PR By Kilian (c)

Overall Smoke for the Soul is a weird perfume. At first it's easy to be confused and condemn it as a high-end but easy going fragrance, likable for most people. But soon I become aware of my mistake, Smoke of the Soule is alternately repulsive and likeable, feels alternately refreshing and depressing. It has something familiar but overall it's a strange composition. It's lighter and more fleeting than some other fragrances with "drug" elements such as Nasomatto Black Afgano ticker, a bit sweeter and fullbodied compared with SftS and Parfumerie Generale Cozë also sweeter,denser and more spicy/herbal. When the fresher sides of SftS shines through, there is something (the chilly herbal quality) in the overall apperance that reminds med of
De Bachmakow from The Different Company.

Smoke for the Soul is suitable (in small doses) for daytime wear but not in too warm or too cold temperatures, perhaps autumn and spring is the best seasons for this fragrance. Overnight longevity and sillage is close. It's classified as unisex and I agree with that, it's totally genderless.

Not my favorite By Kilian but as always with the Kilians a wellcrafted, high quality fragrance that at least creates a reaction, which is not common among the current releases.

Rating: 4

Notes: Eucalyptus, grapefruit, tobacco, mate, birch, cashmirwood, cannabis, cardamom

fredag 23 december 2011

Parfumerie Générale - Cedre Sandarque

Bild: Julbocken av John Bauer, 1912, Wikimedia Commons

Mjuk papparkaka följd av ljust grön, spritsig vetiver landar i en karamelliserad ambra och träbas. Det är den korta versionen av Parfumerie Générales originella Cedre Sandarque. Eller originell förresten, det beror på hur man ser det. Jämfört med "vanliga" dofter är Parfumerie Générales dofter originella men jämför man bara inom PG familjen så är förstås inte alla så originella då de har många gemensamma drag och en typisk, varm, gourmandig PG bas som varieras i flera av dofterna. I känns många spår av PG:s toppdoft Cozë men i CS i en ljusare, sötare och karamelligare variant. Det finns också en lätt behaglig rökighet/brändhet i CS och vetivern är en av de bästa hittils för min hud. Den blir inte kärv och maskulin utan håller sig ljust och spritisgt grön, som om den vore lätt kolsyresatt.

Cedre Sandarque är en verklig unisexdoft, många som anges som unisex har ofta en draging åt det ena eller andra hållet, om jag nu ska vara så konservativ. Den är varm och omhändertagande och pepparkaksnoten gör den perfekt att bära under julen. En doft som en tomte säkert gillar!

Betyg: 4

Noter: Vetiver, afrikanskt cederträ, sandarc kåda, olika sädesslag, karamelliserad ambra