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måndag 29 juli 2013

5 top green summer fragrances

Picture: Crowded on the waterway to Stockholm in July
Photo: Parfumista (c) 
As I wrote in a post recently, I'm perfumwise, in tune with the season this summer i.e I don't long for the darker and heavier fragrances of autumn/winter which is quite common for me. This summer is green in different interpretations to me and even if I don't have time to wear all the fragrances mentioned, there is always some new samples in waiting for test, I sniff them regulary and ensure that the rest of the family wears some of them.

Coton Egyptien (Phaedon): Finally, thanks to Mr Parfumista and the kids who used up my sample, I get this elegant, casual, galbanum light, freshly ironed, high quality crisp cottonfabric fragrance. There is no detergent vibes in this as in for example Serge Lutens L'Eau Serge which is a perfume in a similar style but with a chemical (in a positive way) apperance. The Phaedon line is re-packing in new bottles and it seems as Coton Egyptien is discontinued as it doesn't appear among the re-bottled fragrances. At present Fragrance & Art sells the Phaedons in the old bottles, among them Coton Egyptien, to a reduced price.

Vent Vert (Pierre Balmain): The soapy, slight salty, light musky notes combined with galbanum of the current version reminds me of the archipelago, more particulary the wood-fired sauna with the following bath in the cold seawater. My appreciation of the current version is growing, I like it as much as the older, sharper, more elegant version.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): This gentle, crisp, grassy cologne is like sunwarmed grass added with a light accord of the non-cocnut classical austrian sunscreen Snikk. I think Cologne Friction is on my top summer fragrances list almost every year, it is so relaxing and versatile. Unfortunately it seems as it's discontinued when looking at the new Parfums de Nicolaï website.

Vetiver (Guerlain): Mr Parfumista wears both one of the later Edt versions and a vintage Edc. Both are great (even) for summer. The Edt version (with better longevity) is a bit soapy, with a lighter touch of vetiver, in the Edc the vetiver is more concentrated, smells almost as, but not as strong, the pure vetivernote in LesNez Turtle Vetiver.

Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel): Another underappreciated Chanel IMO. This slight flowery, herbal, watery-green fragrance reminds me of a chilly and refreshing vermuthdrink loaded with icecubes a hot summerday. Perfect casual chic for work during the summer.

lördag 20 juli 2013

Fragrance(s) of the week (29) 2013 - Green &herbal

Here we are in the middle of the summer.Almost every year I have started long for the dark orientals of the autumn & winter by now but this year I'm more in tune whith the season and like to wear herbal and green perfumes such as:
 My SOTD Reverie au Jardin a bit neglected and forgotten Tauer.Green incense  lavandel herbal dry beauty, the always so wearable Cologne Friction from Parfums Nicolai, the salty, musky galbanum of Balmain Vent Vert (I appreciate the new version more and more) and the cotton clean galbanum of Coton Egyptien from Phaedon. Overall I like the unsweet and natural in style fragrances at the moment but theses preferences will probably change soon...

torsdag 2 augusti 2012

Top summerfragrances 2012

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Suddenly the bright and shining early summer month of June disappeared, the high summer month of July is over and sadly most of the summer is gone. Two weeks ago I also noticed the first signs of the late summer, the late evening suddenly was dark, not bright as in the beginning of the summer. One week ago the crickets started to play a true sign of the late summer. Fragrancewise I have worn just a few typical summerfragrances, most of the preferred ones up to day I enjoy the year around. Even if I almost sampling different fragrances and not have much time to wear my favourites, here they are for summer 2012:

Nuit Etoilée (Annick Goutal): Light herbal, slight smoky this one reminds me of a starry night in the asphaltjungle.

Cologne Friction (Parfums de Nicolaï): The ultimate, green, grassy, cologne for lazy summers. Perfect for vacation in the archipelago or just anywhere. And for looking at a game of tennis.
Corps et Ames Eau de Toilette Apaisante (Parfumerie Generale): A 1970s inspired chypre-light featuring the verbena note. An airy and bright interpretation of the original CeA Edp.

Rebel (Antonio Visconti): A soothing, refined patchouli with delicate notes of dark and dry chocolate.

Cristalle Edt (Chanel): There is (almost) nothing like this citrus-mossy classic when it's comes to summer casual chic.

Impossible Iris (Ramón Monegal): Year around elegant-chic. Has made a rapid career and is now among my most appreciated irises.

Rose Etoile de Hollande (Mona di Orio): Monas lovely rose is an olfactorial masterpiece is a multifacetted creation that reflects both the brightness and the dark sides of the rose.

Amoureuse (Parfums DelRae): Whith it's dark, almost decaying flowers blended with cardamon, Amoureuse is a beautiful gem suitable for alls seasons. Love it.

Ubar (Amouage): There is a golden shimmer surrounding the white flowers of this fine Amouage classic. Always right to wear in it's understated elegance, the quiet sister among Dia and Gold.

Black Oud (Montale): This classic dark rosy, leathery, patchuli oud becomes creamy in texture when worn in warm and humid weather. And never fails to attract compliments....

fredag 15 juni 2012

Parfums de Nicolaï - Cologne Friction

Photo: Parfumista (c)

Scroll down for an english version
Patrica de Nicolaïs Cologne Friction är en av husets fina cologner. Friction är mjukt gräsigt grön, krispigt bladdigt grön, den ligger någonstans mellan Sisleys riktigt gräsiga och tomatbladsliknande Eau de Campagne och Thierry Muglers gröna, solcremeslikande mysk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction är inte lika intensivt gräsig som Campagne och är inte fuktigt, myskig som Mugler Cologne utan som sagt ett välmodererat mellanting. Den är liksom torrt grön, utan att bli hö-ig, med en aningen av en lätt osöt tvålighet. Liksom de båda andra gröningerna är Cologne Friction unisex och till och med kinkiga herr Parfumista som aldrig skulle sätta på sig Mugler Cologne kan använda Friction i casualsammanhang någon gång då och då. För Cologne Friction är genuint casual, som gjord för en tur i skogen eller på sjön. Men den fungerar förstås också en dag när man vill ha något lätt och friskt på jobbet, exempelvis om man av en eller annan anledning känner sig ur form. Eftersom Cologne Friction är just en Cologne så är hållbarheten inte så bra men applicerar man en hyfsad dos finns ändå fragment kvar till kvällen.

Sammanfattningsvis en välgjord, balanserad och prisvärd cologne. Att rekommendera för den som inte är nöjd med reformuleringen av Eau de Campagne.

Patricia de Nicolai Cologne Friction is one of the fine wellcrafetd colognes of the house Parfums de Nicolaï. Friction is soft grassy green and crisp green leafy at the same time, it lies somewhere between Sisleys bold grassy and tomato leaf-like Eau de Campagne and Thierry Muglers green, suntan-like musk Mugler Cologne. Cologne Friction is not as intense as grassy Campagne and is not moist and musky as Mugler Cologne, instead it's a well modualted in between. It is dry and green, without being hay-like, with a light  slightly unsweet soapiness. Like the other two are greeniess, Cologne Friction unisex and even the fussy Mr. Parfumista who would never put on Mugler Cologne use Friction for casual once in a while. Beacause Cologne Friction is truly casual, perfect for a ride in the forest or a day at the sea. But of course it also works for the occasions when you want something light and fresh at work, for example, if for one reason or another, feeling out of shape. Of being a cologne the durability is quite good if applying a decent dose there is still clear, green, musky fragments left on skin in the evening.

In summary, Cologne Friction, as usually with the Nicolaï frags, is a well-made, balanced and affordable cologne. To recommend for those who are not satisfied with reformulation of Eau de Campagne.


Rating: 4

Noter: Gräs och annat grönt/ Grass and other greenery