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lördag 6 januari 2024

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2023

 

Pic: Christmas 2023
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (grey outside and daytime temprature ca - 3 C) ice-glaced and just the right volume of snow. I was wearing my Christmas gift from a sample, opened the parcel in the evening: L'Eau Scandaleuse created by breton perfumer Anatole Lebreton. This is one of the very best and intriguing tubereuses according to me. It's a cold, "strip down" tubereuse combined with hints of cosmetic notes, a n impression of something boudoir.-ish. There is also an intriguing sort of slight gasoline-tarry leather in the basenotes.  L'Eau Scandaleuse has been on my radar for years, worn sparingly, using  samples.  When locking at the notes and my impression described above, L'Eau Scandaleuse is great to wear outdoors for exemple walking in the forest in early spring. 

Mr Parfumista  was wearing an old Christmas Eve classic - Knize Ten. It's great for the occasion and it reminds me of that I have yet to try to wear it myself.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last twenty Christmas Eves: 

2022:  Nuit Etoilée Edt Annick Goutal (pine needles, natural minty with contrasting citric notes)
2021: Tobacco Rose Papillion Artisan Perfumes ( dark red rose, over fresh moss, beewax, juniper)
2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 
2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 
2005: Nuit de NoëlCaron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

As this was published afterwards I hope your Christmas was Great and scented with some beautiful fragrances!

PS For New Years Eve I followed up with the real boudoir scent of the Anatoles I've tested - the ultimate lipstick fragrance Incarnata a dangerous slight furry relative, also with a significant myrrh accord, to the in comparision, well-mannered  Les Exclusifs de Chanel Misia Edp. Mr Parfumista was wearing the nosepleasing Byredo Black Saffron a sucessful blend of rose and saffron ending up in a comforting, creamy, leathery accord.

PPS This year I've also forgotten the Midsummerfragrancepost - a half  of a year  later I can announce it was Les Eaux de Chanel  Paris - Riviera, well suited as it was sunny an quite warm to be a northen Midsummereve.

fredag 6 januari 2023

Best of 2022

From the very, very few I have tried from the huge output launched to the fragrancemarket 2022, the favorite fragrances  for me, was the two below: 


Picture: Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Paris
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Paris-Paris: All of the fragrances in the Les Eaux de Chanel - line are so good and so versatile, wearable in every everyday occasion. And the 2022 addition, Paris-Paris was no exception on the contrary, this pink, transparent, slightly jammy rose patch is my favorite together with the two green ones of the line: Édimbourg and Deauville

          Picture: Eau de Basilic Pourpre
Photo: PR Hermès (c)


The unisexfragrance Eau de Basilic Pourpre is a happy, light, herbal-green transparent and very wearable fragrance from the overall so wearable  Hermès Cologne line. My second favorite of the Cologne line, close behind the original Eau d'Orange Verte  (both the 1979 and 2009 versions) and Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate.

There were also two 2022 fragrances classified as masculie which made some impression and for the right occasion/skintype also can work for woman

   Picture: MV2Q 
      Photo: PR Puredistance(c)

Puredistance MV2Q a modern slightly rough leather, business casual in style. Not as polished and classic in (tuxado) style as it's predecessor, M which sadly has to be dicontinued because of some ingredients were hit by some new IFRA standards. 

            Picture: H24 Eau de Parfum
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès H24 Eau de Parfum:  Although I'm more found of the original H24 EDT with it's woolen, metallic steamnotes like ironing a light, clean woolfabric, this years EDP is also very good, even if  more conservative and doesn't stand out as much as the original. The dark green fresh moisty moss in the dry down is probably the carrier the makes the note of narcissus stand out more in this version than in the EDT.

söndag 3 april 2022

SOTD March 2022

Picture: An adorable sight on a walk in early March
 (wearing Putredistance No. 12) -
Shetland Ponies are the cutiest.
Photo: Parfumista (c)

March 2022 - some notes about the SOTD.

1. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Musky light rosy, fruity - pink with lilac nuance

2. Angel Edp (Mugler) The ultimate mulitfacetted gourmand.

3. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) Glowing, golden spicy ambery like sun rays over desert dunes.

4. Sheiduna Extrait (Puredistance) on repeat, one of my top Puredistances.

5. Warszawa Extrait (Puredistance) the dark fresh moss paired with dark plum in such a elegant way.

6. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) raspberry and dark pink rose over patchouli and well balanced oud.

7. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) A seamless blend of rose, iris and an accord like cristal clerar water  with a tiny bit of exclusive soap over a velvet smooth patchouli. Blue. Another of my top Puredistances.

8. Puredistance No 12  Extrait (Puredistance) another day in this beauty.

9. Peut Etre Edp (Maison Lancome) Light pink rose over musk, very pleasant and uncomplicated.

10. Lost in the city Edp (Miller Harris) Tangy rhubarb over rose with some zing from blackberry, close to Hermes Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, which I like better, one of my favorites from the Hermes colognes.

11. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Thick tubereuse, dark chocolade and dark coffe in a delicious blend. 

12. Café Tuberosa Edp (Atelier Cologne) Couldn't resist it for another day.

13. Essence de Patchouli Edp (Perris Monte Carlo) Soapy, sort of dusty, musky dark and cold patchouli,  with a touch of something that reminds me of  a burning mosquito coil in a positive way. Unusual.

14. Coromandel Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Earthy and clean patchouli over a balanaced dry dark chocolade amber, less sweet and more structured than the current Edp. The Edp is also very good although I prefer the Edt slightly.

15. Borneo 1834 Edp (Serge Lutens) Earthy fresh slight herbal-menthol dry dark chocolate  patchouli. Not as elegant as Coromandel, outdoorsy, classy - casual 

16. Akkad Edp (Lubin) Warm, sunny, sort of desert amber, delicious, perfect for snuggling.

17 Ambre 114 (Histoires de Parfums) Dark, herbal amber, leaning to the masculine side, classic styled amber, slight "old man" style.

18. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) I like the Concentre better for colder months with it's thicker texture and a hint of a note that reminds me of licorie which is not present in the  Eau d'Orange Verte. Both variations on a unique intermpretation of the classic colognetheme.

19. After My Own Heart (Ineke) Lovely smooth lilac with fruity notes. Comforting, warmer, sweeter and with more body than En Passant (Fredric Malle).

20. Eau de Soir Edp (Sisley) Elegant and sparkling like Champagne, I think of it as colored in gold and white, cool with beautiful, light, uplifting mossy notes. Have something in common with Puredistance No 12, similar texture and mode. Referring to a batch from mid -00, before the oakmoss regulations.

21. No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) Smoother, sunnier, warmer not as serious cold and chalky as No 5 Edt. Easier to wear, lighter with the aldehydes. Classy. Referring to the 2008 version.

22. Concentre d'Orange Verte (Hermès) Sunny and early spring outside inspires to wear the green orange again. For the evening  No 5 Eau Première  (Chanel) on repeat.

23. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) A warm floral heart with a contrasting touch of tart notes probably from the fruity topnotes. Very pleasant, the perfect inoffensive officescent. Just like the greener and colder Gabrielle Edp.

24. Gabrielle Essence Edp (Chanel) Again - It just smells so good and is so easy to wear.

25. Dune Edt (Dior) Late 1990s formula of Dune, dry, salty, sandy, warm, sunny, high blue sky with glimpses of the sea in the horizon. Still so special.

26. Dune Edt (Dior) Couldn't resist another day in Dune, it's perfect to warming up this  cold, windy Saturday.

27. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef  & Arpels) Dark, plummy leather, concentrated, a bit too masculine for me.

28: Nothing sick in flu or something similar.

29:  The same

30:  The same

31: Red Roses Cologne (Jo Malone)  Feels better celebrating with a few spritzes of this wonderful natural clean and calming rose.

It seems as Puredistance and Chanel (again) are the most worn during the month.

lördag 5 mars 2022

SOTD February 2022

Picture: A soft mossy carpet
Photo: parfumista (c)

Continuing the olfactory discovery trip from January, with a few spontaneuos reflections.

1. Cap Néroli Edt (Parfums Nicolaï) - Sunny high quality néroli.
2. Misia Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - My favourite lipstick iris-rose-violet
3. Misia Edp (Chanel Les Exclusifs) - Also the Edp is perfectly balanced
4. Coco Edt (Chanel) - Reminds me of Krizia Teattro de la Scala.
5. 222 (Le Galion) - Calming sandalwood
6. No 5 Edt (Chanel) - Serious, serene, austere aldehydic, chalky, slight animalic. On my other arm:
    No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) to compare. Joyful and flirty, aldehydic, flowery, chalky, sunny,              trés chic. They are definitly siblings, No 5 the older, takes all responsibility, No 22 the younger              one, carefree, playing around.
7.  No 22 Edt (Chanel Les Exclusifs) Still trés chic.
8. Diorella Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version on my left wrist melon, peach and white flowers over a green       chypre base. An outdoor fragrance. On my other wrist:
    Diorama Edp (Dior Les Creations de Monsieur Dior) 2010s version: A cousin to Diorella, without       melon and with deeper plum and caraway instead of  the greenery. An indoor formal version. A             real wristsniffer.
9.Lady Vengeance ( Juliette Has A Gun) The prototype of a good contemporary rose patchouli, not sweet  with a natural medium pink rose. Still going strong.
10. Midnight Oud (Juliette Has A Gun) Opens with an animalic leathery accord, a dark, sultry rose appears in the dry down . Probably the real Lady Vengeance.
11. Dioressence Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version. Smells like rosewood, orange, smooth cinnamon, rose, violet, iris over patchouli oakmoss. Scent memories from my childhood.
12. Hypnotic Poison Edt (Dior) ca 2000 version dry vanilla milky almond with contrasting subtle flowers and an almost mossy base, balances the blend. So comfortable and warm in grey windy weather.
13. Oud Bouquet Edp (Maison Lancôme) Sweet, dark, milky vanilla and rose ( the typical slight powdery Lancome rose) over a contrasting balanced oud. Delicious and very long lasting
14. No 19 Edt (Chanel) Flawless, cold, clean and dry green iris boquet. 
15. Eau de Ciel Edt (Goutal) The smell of the dry grass of a sundrenched meadow a sunny and hot  slight breezy day in the high summer. The smell of hay. Very special and distinct, light application is needed even if an Edt.
16. Attar Edp (Montale) A quite early batch, pleasant to wear, humble, deep, woody, red rosy , no screachy or peppery notes. 
17. Peut-Être Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. An uplifting, airy, straight forward pink rose, so easy and uncomplicated to wear. Nice!
18.  L'Autre Oud Edp (Maison Lancôme) 2020 version. More depth than Oud Boquet, boozy, incense, dark red rose supported by a well balanced oud to something almost winey, like a ruby red port.
19. Orchid Leather Edp (Van Cleef & Arpels) The slight boozy, plummy, balsmic aspects are dominating during this wearing, not so much leather more of cold spicy accents.
20. Leather Oud Edp (Maison Christian Dior) The electric smell of dust on a varm bulb (also present in fragrances as Mona di Orio carnation and Tèo Cabanel Kaspar) over a boozy accord almost as soaked in a dry plumliqueur and with a slight animalic touch. 
21. Gucci Oud Edp (Gucci) A darker woodier variation of Gucci by Gucci with the characteristic raspberry/rose combo sweetness  that is present in many contemporary fragrances.
22. Angel Edp (Mugler) The honeyed dark chocolade notes over that special clean, stripped down patchouli are still unique after almost 30 years. My bottle from ca 2007, the liquid  is still bright blue, stored under dark and cool conditions.
23. Angel Edp (Mugler) On repeat today, in a lighter dose, almost aquatic notes emerges and the fractioned patchouli.
24. La Vierge De Fer  Edp (Serge Lutens) The beautiful innocent white lily meets cold steel and incense, an olfactory illustration of this dark day.
25. Boxeuses (Serge Lutens) Subtle leather with dark plum sweet contrasted with some dry spicey notes. Discreet despite its name. 
26.Cristalle Edt (Chanel)  the symbol of true casual chic sunny cold green lemon perfect for a sunny winterday
27. Chance Eau Tendre Edp (Chanel) Light rosy musky cold sort of  D&G Light Blue fresh feeling even if not smelling alike.
28.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

Conclusion: Chanelfragrances seems to be the most worn in February. So glad I re-discovered the original Angel after neglecting it for years.

lördag 5 februari 2022

SOTD January 2022

Picture: A shy rose
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Trying to find out if there is a pattern/ some connection between the fragrances I'm wearing during a period of time. First step is to capture data about it, then analyzing.

Day/Month January 2022
1 L'Ombre Des Merveilles (Hermès) - Worn the Elixir Des Merveiilles on New Years Eve to warm up in the grey weather, wanted a lighter follow up on the first day of the new year.

2.Sucre d'Ebene (Pierre Guillaume, Huitieme Art Collection/Black Collection) - Cosy warm woodden sugar with touches of nutty elements. Perfect for a grey and rainy/snowy day (ca 0 C) as today. Beware: Very strong, unfortunately I overdosed a little from the small sample. 

3. Pour Monsieur (Chanel)  - I read somewhere Fragrantica? Basenotes? Bois de Jasmin?  somebody's notice that ladies shouldnt't miss to try this out for themselves. And I totally agree after todays testing from my sons bottle, the light green tinted formula, I think it's reformulated recently and is not longer green. CPM is so very good in a  timeless, casual, elegant way: Starts with a classy Chanel citrus-neroli accord over fresh soft cold spices grounded in okamoss and vetiver. Lasts very well on my skin and unisex IMHO. 

4. Angéliques Sous La Pluie (Frederic Malle) - Today it was sunny and not rainy at all. As ASLP reminds me of spring and I wanted something relaxing but distinctive  and the sample ASLP just appeared, it was the obvious SOTD.  The angelica and juniper are awesome in this timeless Jean Claude Ellena creation in his typical watercolour style. ASLP somehow reminds me of spring.

5. Orangers en Fleurs (Houbigant) - Grey outside today and it's snowing, Orangers en Fleurs is the perfect moodbooster with its sunny apperance. An orangeflower/white flowers in similar style but higher on the notescale than Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger and the cumin of the latter exchanged with a soft note of nutmeg. 

6. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Fresh, happy, sparkling and warm neroli/orange/citrus with its own twist, something that reminds me of the smell of orange and citrus hard candy pastilles. A contemporary orangeblossom.

7. Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - Can't resist Riviera.

8. Les Eaux Paris - Édimbourg (Chanel) - The best of them all in the Les Eaux Collection a contomporary interpretation of lavender but most of all; juniper berry and juniper wood.

9.  Les Eaux Paris - Riviera (Chanel) - So sunny and warming during another grey winterday.

10. Une Rose (Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle) - A semidark red rose, polite and subtle, well balanced, natural smelling combined with a slight boozy accord. Calming and a real pleasure to wear.

11. Eau des Merveilles (Hermès) - This woody, salty ambregris reminds me of the sea by spring or early autumn. Versatile and strong, more than a few small spritzes will be too much.

12. 222 (Le Galion) - Elegant sandalwood with smooth leather notes fleeting around contrasted with a 
balanced note of myrrh and a tiny violet. A quiet and very comfortable skinscent with great longevity.

13. Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens) - a light and transparent version of the characteristic Serge Lutens woody smell  combined with  fresh flowering purple violets. In the basenotes the violets are combined with light powdery notes wich adds a slight vintage touch. Unobtrusive and calming. 

14. Roses Musk (Montale) - A bold fragrance intense as nuclear radiation. A true rosenote combined with a syntetic woody/oud note and white musk. The result is a pepper and rosecombo which is uncomplicated and strange as it may seem, a pleasure to wear once in a while.

15. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - An vintage styled dark green mossy rose chypre with musky slight animalic notes  and some almost herbal notes which take the fragrance from the feamale boudoir style in the opening of the fragrance in a masculine direction. A demanding and intriguing fragrance.

16. La Belle Le Parfum (Jean Paul Gaultier) - Either particularly sophisticated or elegant fragrance but very delightful and cozy. La Belle Le Parfum appears as a delicsious, luxurious cake with pear infused with liqeur and a fluffy boozy vanilla. Perfect for a grey windy winterday and with great longevity.

17. Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens) - Tried RdN not as heavy applicated  today (ca 2,5 spritzes) as two days ago (ca six spritzes) and this is the right way to enjoy RdN. The same smell, not as dense when alternated with an airiness as a consequense of the lighter application, RdN qualities comes to the fore.

18. Drôle de Rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur) -  A pink rose, violet and iris paired with  a cold dry, chalky, slight dusty accord. All summon up in some kind of putty structure. Drôle de Rose reminds me of a grey windy day in early spring with some light purple clouds on grey skies. Drôle de Rose was a lipstick, the colour would be a light transperant cold pink-purple. A beautiful fragrance, reportedly discontinued.

19. Iris des Champs (Houbigant) - An unusual iris. No powder or lipsticknotes and the carrots are just glimpsing in the early topnotes. Starts dry and cold with slight peppery notes. Woody notes with the cold freshness of cedar follows and the woody impression remains during the whole dry down. In the basenotes a pleasent musk appears, its a musk somewhere in the middle, not skanky animalic nor clean white musk. A fragrance with many interesting nuances and with excellent longevity.

20. Lux (Mona di Orio) - A  play with light and dark contrasts,  a dark lemon is the main theme through the whole drydown, appears as growing in the shadow side of the lemon tree. A contrast to a  bright citrus in the sun.  Reminds me somehow of pickled lemons. Some fresh earthiness, contrasted with smooth, almost creamy woody slight dirty musky notes. A contemplating perfume, perfect for relaxing at home.

21. Black Afgano (Nasomatto) - Distinctive woody notes with a subdued oud, some glimpses of dark green, in the dry down also some dark, smooth rounded tobacco liqeuer notes. One of the best woody perfumes IMHO, no traces of that screechy woody note that is so common in woody perfumes. Maybe because my BA is well aged, it has rested under dark and cool for 10+ years, maybe it is just as good also in current formulation.

22. Akkad (Lubin) - A comforting, warm, high pitched and radiating light spicy-herbal amberfragrance. It's like the rays of sunshine.  Underneath some darker notes appears, like a well balanced, thick patchoulinote. Perfect for grey  and chilly winterdays.

23. Rubikona (Puredistance) - Such a pleasant and elegant classic chypre made in a contemporary style. A dark moss and patchouli accord, rose and a distict note of varm an bright orangeblossom and a natural sweet fruitiness. A real pleasure to wear.

24. Warszawa (Puredistnce) -  Such an elegant way to start an ordinary week .A darker chypre than Rubikona, dark iris , violet and dark moss, some dark plum liqeur, A classic in  acontemporary interpretation. reminds me  of  elegant dark  fruity chypres as YSL Yvresse, Guerlain Mitsouko and Rochas Femme.

25. Orchid Leather (Van Cleef  & Arpels)- Dark, oppulent, slight boozy, plummy, balsmic with sparkles of  fresh cardamom. Comforting in winter, a strong formula, that lasts for long,  just two or three spritzes is enough.

26. Cristalle Eau Verte (Chanel) - A beautiful and casual chic everyday fragrance not just for summer.
It's energizing glimmering slight green citrus magnolia profile is cheering the most gloomy grey winterday up.

27. Kiss me Intense (Parfums de Nicolaï) - So comforting, clean natural smelling like easter lily and heliotrope. A sweet impression, but not sugary sweet. A sort of natural flowery gourmand. Like sitting the whole day in the yellow, sunny flowerbell on an easter lily Perfect for grey winterdays.

28. Ambre Fétiche (Annick Goutal) -  One of the best ambres ever (IMHO) wearing the original formula  from an early batch. A glowing, close, velvety, tick amber with subtle incense and a dark smooth patchouli and some dry vanilla. The texture  is sort of honeyed, natural that gives it a slight gourmand feeling, A very comforting winterfragrance. 

29. 
Aomassai 10 (Pierre Guillaume) - To me this is a red wood cologne,. Warm, with natural gourmand notes as nut, caramel, milk, coffee and spices in a mix, offset by contrasting a woody accord which feels like it has a cologne structure. Great and unusual.

30.  Pentachords Auburn (Andy Tauer) - From AT:s earlier exprerimental line, where each fragrance consisting of just five syntetic notes inspired of a color. Auburn is an interpretation of  cinnamon, cold and dry in apperance. Waem, sunny, orangeblossom is contrasting, blended with a blond tobbacconote over some warm sandalwood and amber. A intriguing and challenging winterfragrance in a  strong formula, maximum two - three spritzes, lasts for over a day. A must try for Tauer fans.

31. Rose Pompon
 Edp (Annick Goutal) - A real rose favorite, so pleasant to wear.  A medium pink rose, it smells just like the color of the juice. A rose balanced with fresh raspberry and violet vanilla, but not lipstick powdery in texture. the 2020 edition.

Conclusion: Any pattern in the fragrance wearing during the wintermonth of january?  Light Chanel fragrances is the most obvious, most worn style. Besides that maybe as a opposite, heavier  oriental-ambery frags, some strong roses and gourmands reflects the season.



fredag 31 december 2021

Best of 2021

2021 was a very good perfumeyear, at least from the few I have tried from the huge output to the market. Below the four fragrances launched (and sniffed) 2021 that I liked the most:



Chanel Les Eaux Paris - Édimbourg
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Chanel Édimbourg is my current favorite, it is a rare interpretation and contemporary of the classic and not so unusual juniper-fresh notes formula. In Édimbourg the juniper in the opening smells like the real berries followed by a woody note smelling very natural, as the wood of the juniper bush. Everything surrounded by an airy, watery note and a hint of a warm, very soft, slight musky lavender. A juniper of a new era, Édimbourg mediates something new without leaving its proud legacy.


Hermès H24
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Hermès H24 was controversial when it was launched this spring. I liked it from the beginning and the liking has groning ever since. The more I smell it, my son is the most frequent wearer of it in the family, the more I admire the simple but clever formula. Contemporary dry greenness, a pleasant metallic, not and best of all; the steam- and woolenaccord, as from ironing an excellent coolwool fabric. Unisex IMO. H24 will the precursor for the 2020s green genre. H24  and Édimbourg has something in common. Even if they smells different; both are casual, toned down, contemporary and mediates a sustainable approach.

As Édimbourg and H24 to my nose feels like fragrances in a new style, there were also two perfumes in the more classic field that stole my attention 2021:

Puredistance No. 12
Puredistance No 12
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)

Puredistance No 12, blue, sparkling like a fine sapphire, true clean watery earthy creamy rosy iris-y elegance  which reveals different faces in different wearings. The fine quality ingredients are so well blended, which makes it hard to catch the indivdual notes. A multifacetted pleasure to wear, chic elegance at its best. Here is my full review.


Chanel Les Exclusifs Le Lion
Photo: PR Chanel (c)


Chanel Le Lion (in some markets pre-launched already in 2020) is like a refined Guerlain Shalimar EDP to me.  The rough and though edges  of Shalimar (for example the accord that reminds me of wet, well worn, tweed a grey, rainy autumnday), which are a part of S:s personality  are missing in Le Lion. The wellbehaved Le Lion with its balanced patchouli-amber accord and sophicated vanilla note, which reminds me of the vanilla in the interpretation in Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique. Like the latter Shalimar, Le Lion with its contemporary vibe is less challenging to wear, but absolutely not dull at all.

fredag 24 december 2021

The Fragrances of Christmas Eve 2021


Picture: Christmas 2021
Photo: Parfumista (c)

The Scent of Christmas Eve (sunny outside and daytime temprature ca -10) and just a little powdery snow is the comforting Tobacco Rose from Papillion Artisan Perfumes created by the founder of the perfumehouse, Liz Moores. Like a very dark red rose placed over moisty but fresh smelling moss, honeyd - beewax accord, almost cold balsamic notes over slight salty ambregris.  Something smelling like pickled juniperberries is also teasing my nose. Overall Tobacco  Rose is very natural smelling and a suitable scent for cold weather when relaxing indoors. Mr Parfumista is wearing a real classic: Knize Ten with its fascinationg and characteristic  notes of  high quality wool fabric. The youngsters are wearing Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore EDT respectively no perfume at all.

Below the updated list of the fragrances I've worn for the last eightteen Christmas Eves: 

2020: Rubikona Puredistance (contemporary chypre fresh - earthy and green accord, surounded and contrasted by smooth ,elegant creamy flowers). 
2019: Gold Puredistance (with a beautiful myrrhnote, a sort of smooth resin/sap and a cold (but not freezing) outdoor -in the wood - impression 
2018: Rubj Extrait by Vero Kern (warm, glowing orange in spices and elegant white flowers) 
2017: Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford (elegant retro but also contemporary austere flowery-green.)
2016: Oud Sublime Parfums de Nicolaï (quality "forest-refreshing" dark green, mossy, woody) 
2015: Rose de Taif Extrait Perris Monte Carlo (high class smooth velvety rose petals) 
2014: Impossible Iris Ramòn Monegal (an elegant, contempory iris with a delicious rasperrynote) 
2013: Quintaesensia Ramòn Monegal, (a special retro styled blend, furry, ambery, herbal/spicy) 
2012: Nothing, knocked down by the worst flu in ten years+. 
2011: Betrothal, Grossmith (classic, light and exquisite florals) 
2010: Cuir Mauresque, Serge Lutens (saddle leather, orangeblossom, jasmine, spices) 
2009: Tribute Attar, Amouage (dark leather, smoke, oud, excellent spices) 
2008: Incense rosé, Andy Tauer (rose, mandarine, cardamom, myrrh cedar, incense) 
2007: Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empires (boozy amber, the, wood, oriental) 
2006: Jil Sander 4, Jil Sander (dark, overripe fruits, white almost withering flowers, oriental spices) 
2005: Nuit de NoëlCaron (dusky, retro flowers, moss and a furry note) 
2004: Cabochard, Parfums Grès (leathery chypre, harsh green notes and retro flowers) 
2003: Fracas Robert Piguet (the ultimate classic grand tubereuse) 

I wish you a Great Fragrant Christmas, stay healthy and safe

lördag 5 januari 2019

Side by side test of....

....some Coco variations. I wanted to compare Coco Mad EDT with Coco Mad EDP and Coco Mad Intense EDP. As I had a fourth spot free, I also spritzed Coco Noir EDP even if that one probably should be compared with the original Coco's, especially the ETP.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle EDT
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Coco Mademoiselle EDT: Sort of pink fluffy, girly Coco Mad variation. It's like fluffy cotton on the plant growing on the cottonfield with the smell of dry soil a sunny summerday. This outdoor accord is also combined with a touch of what I imagine as fresh picked strawberries on a straw.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Coco Mademoiselle EDP: This is the ladylike Coco Mad variation. Flowers over a tangy, slight fruity accord, some green cold steems like the stems of bulbflowers. This chic and chilly bouquet is anchored in the patchoulibased Noveau Chypre accord, where the patchouli is just a part of the mix, it doesn't stand out as a dominant note. It's still daytime and sun with the EDP but colder outside, like spring or early fall.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle Intense EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Coco Mademoiselle Intense EDP: In the dark Intense version an elegant velvet patchouli wrapped in some restrained amber is the protagonist. The flowers are not recognizable as an own accord, they are blended with the dark notes, creating a glimmering edge which comes up to the surface now and then. An comfortable and elegant perfume for evening or cold days in fall or Winter. Not as ladylike as the EDP, this is more the boho chic style. Reminds me in style of Prada Amber.

Picture: Coco Noir EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)


Coco Noir EDP: When compared directly to the Coco Mad there is obvious that Coco Noir has it's background in another branch of the Coco family tree. Elegant, light spicy with a distinct retro smell, the opening reminds me of a classic parfume which I could not place right now. I come to think of a resting in a backyard  garden in the shadows of the medival walls of an Mediterranean  ancient town a hot summerday. Noir is for the effortless, stylish globetrotter.

måndag 9 april 2018

Short impressions of some new fragrances

Picture: Stockholm Sergels Square,
between  NK and Åhléns,
the two major departmentstores
Photo: Borrowed from the  KTH website
I have speed sniffed some relatively new arrivals this weekend. Below some short impressions:

Hermessence Agar Ebene (Hermès): A beautiful, high quality leather, first impressions of another Hermessence; Cuir d'Ange where Agar Ebene is fuller and more mature in its texture. Somehow I come to think of a nice and anxious leather, more "simple" in construction , not as complex and charcteristic as for example Chanel Cuir de Russie with its dry gunpowdery and light flowery notes. Unisex.

Hermessence Cedre Sambac (Hermès): A full and fruity, jasmine contrasted by the fresh, slight peppery cleanness of cedarwood. An intersting combination where the jasminenote reminds me about of the jasminedominated, white floral accord of Cacharel Scarlett but less sweet. Cedre Sambac is unisex, leaning to the feminine side.

Eau de Citron Noir (Hermès): Lemon with accompaning dry, smokey teanotes and slight peppery woody notes. Refreshing, without beeing clean in style, longlasting and with a good sillage taken ion consideration it's classified as an Eau de Cologne. Unisex leaning slightly to the masculine side.

Café Tuberosa (Atelier Cologne): Starts with thick tuberose, bergamot, blended with dry cacao and maybe a hint of coffee. It's a thick blend, vintage in style reminding me in texture and style of Vero Profumo Rozy. Later there are traces of the colognestyle with hints of citric notes.

Coco Mademoiselle Intense (Chanel): As a lover of Coco (Coco Noir) in all its incarnations, the Intense Mad inerpretation is just was I expected: A darker, denser, lower on the fragrance note scale then the regular Coco Mad. The patchouli is also more pronounced and the flowers subdued compared to the original. Even if similar to each other I need both variations....

måndag 12 februari 2018

Gucci - Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme

Picture: Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme
Photo: PR Gucci (c)
Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme is the female interpretation of the 2017 success for him, the rubbery leather Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme. Both fragrances are created by the very experienced perfumer Alberto Morillas. 

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme (GGApF) starts with a juicy, very natural black berry and to my nose also black currant accord. Later on  a purple rose accompanied by the green woody note of cypress, some glimpses from the leather in Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme  (GGApH) and the dark patchoulinote shows up. Light rose pepper sparkles in the blend like glimpsing stars on the dark night sky in the middle of a cold winter. The pepper never goes peppery, it's just fizzy. The fruity notes are tangy and delicate, and not especially sweet. GGApF has some similarities with GGApH, the same woody notes, especially from the cypress and a smooth interpretation of the leather. GGApF has not the rough and though burnt rubbery notes of GGApH, instead it has those beautiful dark fruity, juicy notes blended with the rose which creates a plush feminine impression over the contrasting masculine woody notes.

GGApF could be worn both for day and night. It's a bit formal, it's not a casual, laid back fragrance, it's perfect for the office and for after work. It's a fragrance that builds confidence, in the same way as for example Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp and even more; Montana Parfum de Peau. Just as the fragrances mentioned, the longevity is great, silage not as big but medium.

GGApF is an excellent example of the new chypre style, less sweet than the usual ones and with its own juicy, dark blackberry character. Even if GGApF is an example of the new chypre style, wearing it somehow makes me think of, even if not smelling similar, the above mentioned grand chypre of the 80s Montana. GGApF:s character also reminds me of Sisley Soir de Lune which is also a great contemporary chypre but created in the classic style. 

To me GGApF is one of the best releases for years in the womans section. I'm convinced this will be a classic just as GGApH.

Rating: 5

Notes: Blackberry, bergamot, pink pepper, rose, cypress, woody notes, amber, patchouli

måndag 20 november 2017

Further fragrance reading...

Picture: Novemberrose
Photo: Parfumista (c)
I'm in some sort of writer's block but others have interesting perfumrelated things to share. Here some links to articles/posts I've appreciated recently.

Intresting thoughts about the battle between two versatile, very likable, everyday  fragrances launched in 2017  Chanel Gabrielle and Hermès Twilly - like them both.

And here comes reviews of them Twilly on Perfume Shrine and Twilly on Now Smell This Twilly on The Scented Salamander, Gabrielle on Bois de Jasmin and Gabrielle on Now Smell This, Gabrielle on The Scented Salamander.

An article about styling the winter wardrobe with perfumes on Fragrantica. The picture of the snowmen is just great :-)

Bois de Jasmin share us some words of wisdom from Christian Dior’s Little Dictionary of Fashion  timeless advices about style which of course including perfume.

More vintage, here about vintage perfume bottles

And last but not least - an inteview (with photo) with the mysterious perfumer Pierre Montale who many people doubt exist. Anyway, somebody is interviewed here 

måndag 16 oktober 2017

5 Autumn Fragrances 2017

Picture: Autumnleaves 2017
Photo: Parfumista (c)
Autumn is very rainy and quite warm this year. This weekend the sun was shining mauch and there was almost as late summer days. When it comes to fragrances, my choices are both "in between", transition fragrances or fragrances suitable for (almost) year around and some autumn/winter fragrances. And there are lot of Chanel I recognize when thinking of what I've worn lately.

Gabrielle (Chanel): The more I wear Gabrielle, the more I like it. This abstract, lightly glowing like an opal, restrained floral is an addicting fragrance. Gabriell is so easy and versatile to wear, attracting compliments and stay long on skin.

Twilly d'Hermès (Hermès): Ginger and a pale tuberose where the ginger is not too strong, it's just enough and adds a fizzy sparkle to the pale, watercolor tuberose. Twilly reminds me of a light outdoor variation of Vivienne Westwood Boudoir (the first version of it).

Coco Edt (Chanel): This one is of course for autumn and winter but is also a great transition fragrance. Warm, glowing like amber, with soft spicy notes where cinnamon most evident. A great spicy oriental, the Edt is more straightforward spicy than the Edp with it's more pronunced drak fruity and flowery notes.

1996 Inez & Vinoodh (Byredo): Light smooth leather over patchouli contrasted with the cold iris/violet and juniperberries that is very comforting and relaxing to wear. Perfect for grey, rainy days. Reminds me somehow slightly of the signature fragrance from Adrienne Vittadini.

Ambre Sauvage (Les Absolus Annick Goutal): A beautiful, dark, glowing amber. Like resting in front of the fireplace a dark and cold winterevening zipping on a good brandy or calvados. A clean an smooth amber contrasted by deep, black, patchouly.









måndag 21 augusti 2017

Love Chanel - A side by side test of two Chanels

In my mind, I have thought of the Jaques Polge (former house pefumer of Chanel) creations Allure Sensuelle Edp (launched in 2005) and Coco Mademoiselle Edp (launched in 2001) as quite similar, always thinking of the other when wearing the other one. As I have to get clarity in this mystery, I've at last compared them side by side. Below my thoughts:

The similarity between the two is that they are on the same level of radiation, on the same stage on the fragrance notescale, both are somewhere between bright than dark even if containing heavy notes and accords. And of course, the elegant Chanel interpretation of patchouli is the core ingredient in both fragrances.
Picture: Chanel Allure Sensuelle Edp
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Allure Sensuelle starts with radiant notes of spices and resins with an ambery, patchouli character. The texture is balsamic and almost like sweet rubber, I can imagine of a pink chewinggum. There are also glimpses of something resembeling menthol or nailpolish in Allure Sensuelle. The spicy notes are strict, well mannared and have an almost cold quality.  The ambery, spicy patchouli are accompanied with discrete flowers and dried fruits, everything very balanced and well behaved. When coming to Chanel oriental fragrances, the chilly, balanced and behaved  floral oriental  Allure Sensuelle contrasts to the warm, spicy and bombastic spicy oriental Coco (launched 1984). Compared to Coco Mademoiselle, Allure Sensuelle is sweeter and  more polished. It also feels more complicated, with some strange twists which gives the fragrance an overall more interesting drydown than Coco Mad.
Picture: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Edp
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Coco Mademoiselle starts with a contrasting orange/citrus and patchouli accord with elegant touches of bergamot. The heart of Coco Mad is classic florals interpreted in a clean, scaled down, contemporary way, there is no traces of a romantic floral bouquet or rural flower meadows. Coco Mad is a fragrance for urban life, a fragance which mingles well with asphalt and exhaust. The flowery heart is accompained by a musky patchouli, instead of the ambery patchouli in Allure Sensuelle, wrapped in light balsamic notes. The base of Coco Mad is the gold standard for the contemporary so called chypre, where patchouli blends became a different alternative to the banned oakmoss. Not in smelling the same, but to create a similar feeling. Compared to Allure Sensuelle, I find Coco Mad as lauder and more straight forward in its development, there are not the weired twists as in Allure Sensuelle. The patchouli is also more outstanding as single note in the basenotes of Coco Mad, in Allure Sensuelle the patch is more integrated with the amber and spices in the basenotes.

To summon up; two great classics where definitly Allure Sensuelle deserves more attention as an alternative to Coco Mad and Coco Mad doesn't need any attention as its one of the bestsellers, if not the bestseller of the 2000s.

måndag 14 augusti 2017

Love Chanel

Picture: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
Photo from the blog The Encanted Manor
Chanel is a house with an aesthetics to love (just as Hermès). The chic aesthetics  also affects, or maybe more correct, inspires the fragrances from the house. The fragrances are well made and even if not in love with every subline, my craving for Chanel fragrances is enough to qualify Chanel as one of my favorite perfumehouses. I think many of the Chanels in the regular line is as good as Les Exclusifs, the difference is more in price and distribution, not the quality of the production.

I very much appreciate the aldehydic classics like No 5 in its difierent versions, as also the mossy citrus of Cristalle and the greenery of No 19 in the different interpretations of those classics. Also the modern classics as the incredible spicy oriental Coco and the not as much talked about gem Allure Sensuelle are favorites as also the mega hit, the contemporary fruity-floral chypre Coco Mademoiselle and its balsamic, spicy follower Coco Noir.

When it comes to Les Exclusifs there are also plenty to love. The green and clean woody vetiver Sycomore, the putty, slight dirty aldehyde No 22, the strange amberette No 18, the elegant flowers of Beige and best of them all the smooth, light flower touched, gunpowder leather of Cuir de Russie.

I'm now curious to try the new Gabrielle and find out if the new Chanel pillar fragrance will qualify among my favourites.