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måndag 25 september 2017

Montale – Gold Flowers

Picture: Polianthes tuberosa, 1816,
John Sims (1746-1799), Wikimedia commons

Montale Gold Flowers is one in the indefinite ranges of perfumes from the house of  Montale, created by the hyperproductive perfumer Pierre Montale some years ago. Gold Flowers belongs to the Edp line, which is the non-oud line of the house. Of course there are oudnotes in many of the blends in the Edp-line but the note is used as a woody note among others and not as the leading note of the creation as in the Oud-line.

In Gold Flowers I can’t detect any oud, Gold Flowers is a genuine, tuberose dominated spicy, bold flowery fragrance. Gold Flowers reminds me of at least three fragrances: Spellbound with it’s flowery spiciness, Fracas tuberose and the texture of the flowery, fruity chypre Jil Sander 4. But Gold Flowers is lighter, brighter and more contemporary than those three fragrances. As the fragrances of the early 90s has been one of the major trends in perfumery for some years, for example Burberry Body, Gold Flowers is quite in tune with time.

The sillage and longevity is great as almost always with the Montales. The composition is also well balanced. Gold Flowers is perfect for warming up a grey day in autumn- or winter but is also appropriate to summer as it last very well and has a certain transparency. With it’s character it is also suitable for evening wear. To summarize: Gold Flowers is not the most original composition but cozy and wearable spicy, tuby fragrance.

Rating: 4

Notes: Tuberose, pepper, clove, sandalwood, grey amber

måndag 22 maj 2017

Impressions of Zlatan Ibrahimovic Myth Wood & Myth Bloom

Picture: Zlatan Ibrahimovic and
perfumer Olivier Pescheux sniffing their new releases
Myth Wood and Myth Bloom
Photo: PR Zlatan Ibrahimovic/Anna Malmberg (c)
Yesterday, visiting the local mall, there was a table exposing Zlatan Ibrahimovic's just launched fragrances Myth Wood and Myth Bloom and for once I stopped and sniffed.It's very rare I sniff a celebrity fragrance even if I'm claiming I'm not a perfumesnob. When it comes to Zlatan, he is of course not "just another celebrity" for a swede, he's after all the greatest footbollplayer this country has produced so far. And his partner Helena (who was an entrepeneaur and businesswomen long before she met Zlatan) has a great taste for fashion...

The Myth fragrances, according to the marketingbuzz, are inspired from the nature and myths of Sweden. Zlatan wanted to capture the scents from where he feel most at home, in the swedish nature where he gets peace and quiet. Perfumer Olivier Pescheaux was visitning Sweden around Midsummer 2016 to collect scents from the nature, the forests, meadows and from the archipelago with it's barren woods and vegetation. Then (I guess) headspace technology was used to transform the scents into the perfumers palette. My impressions comes from sniffing scentstripes with Myth Wood and Myth Bloom + two squeezes on skin of the female Myth Bloom.

Myth Wood starts quite common like a contemproary light, bright aromatic woody fragrance with a tangy fresh element, probably the grapefruit. Later some pine and blond woody notes steps forward to my nose also a note of beewax is fully evident even if not mentioned in the notelist. The lavander is not that evident but acting as a contrast to the woodyness. I can't smell the moss as a separate ingredient but the forestinspiered aura of the  fragrance contains a fresh, moisty, mossy element. Myth Wood is much more interesting in what's left on the scentstripe after almost a day than the more ordinary opening. A fragrance that comes to my mind when sniffing Myth Wood is Maria Candida Gentile Gershwin but without the incensenote in the latter. The aura and woody brightness, the calmness of the fragrance, also have something in common with Lankaran Forest from the same house.

Myth Bloom is a bright, pink rose with different companions than the usual example from the genre. The shamrock and especially the appleblossom are clearly detectable, contributing to the wild rose in a partly different direction. There is also an almost peachy note apperant, probably the result of the mix of the flowers. The woods are Scandinavian blond and bright, cedar balances the woody mix just right,   it doesn't becomes sharp or smelling like pencilshavings. There are also elements of hay and hints of the pleasant beewaxnote in Myth Wood. When sniffing Myth Bloom one of my first impressons was that this is amost UNUM Rosa Nigra and as logical result of that I also smell a connection to Burberry Body.

My findings from this brief evalution is that I like both fragrances very much. When it comes to Myth Wood the next step is to test it on my own skin as I think it's unisex from sniffing the scentstripe. When it comes to Myth Bloom I'm tempted to go for a bottle. And at last: Does the fragrances capture the scents of Sweden? Yes in some ways, it captures the spirit (in a chemical way of course) of the nature in summer, Bloom gives me associations to a Midsummer meadow and Wood has elements of the archipelago. Somehow I also come to think of Russia when smelling Wood. Maybe it's the beewaxnote and something that is similar to the olfactory picture of gentle incense in a wooden church in northen Russia, a picture I also experiences when smelling Commes de Garcons Zagorsk even if the fragrances smells different as a whole.

måndag 4 april 2016

UNUM - Rosa Nigra

Picture: From the medevial Källa church
on the island of Öland, Sweden
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rosa Nigra is the latest installation in the UNUM perfume line. Rosa Nigra is as the other UNUM fragrances LAVS and Opus 1144 created by Filippo Sorcinelli. Rosa Nigra is created as a variation of the retro powdery smelling Opus 1144.

Rosa Nigra starts with an very intriguing accord which reminds me of a windy, chilly, grey, cloudy day, cold stone, chalk, earth, tangy greenery, like the steem and leafs of a rose. There are some traces from the flower of the rose too, it's a rose from a wild rosebush, not tamed to perfection, I can imagine the rose growing outside an abandoned small medieval countryside church. The tangy, green, dark spirit note of absinth is clearly present, blended with the rose and the chillyness of freesia, balanced with a pleasant peach. This is a combination thet could also be found in Burberry Body but in that one the accord is in a higher octave of the scented notescale and also a bit sweeter. In the topnotes I also find a note that reminds me of honeyed incense and I suspect someincense is involved even if not mentioned in the notelist.


Picture: Rosa Nigra
Photo: PR Unum (c)

As Rosa Nigra dries further down the blend is clearing up after the initial storm and the flowers, peach, absinth are shining also as individual notes interacting in an intricate pattern. One can recognize Opus 1144 but without the thick powdery and dusty lemony smell. The peach is the mainplayer in the second part of Rosa Nigra, the peach has a vintage vibe which make me think of a brighter and cleaner version of the peach in Guerlain Mitsouko. Later on Rosa Nigras also reminds me of the contemporary fruity chypre EnJoy from Jean Patou.The floral-fruity accords are highlighted by the well balanced woody, muksy base. The longer Rosa Nigra dries down the more rosy it becomes, once again. This time there is much more of the rose petals and the perform in a pleasant, pink, creamy version but it's well contratsted with the tangy greenery but in a smaller dose than on the topnotes. Once again the similarity of something that could be a luxury variation of Burberry Body is obvious.

Just as the incensebomb  UNUM LAVS, Rosa Nigra goes from a dramatic, imaginative opening to a much more polished and orderly second part. In the case of Rosa Nigra the fragrance goes from a medivial feeling to a polished contemporary version of a 1920s/1930s fragrance and in its latest stages to a contemporary musky rose.

I find the opening most interesting but in the second part, Rosa Nigra transforms to a very wearable (around the year), really good smelling (at least in the rosy part) and elegant fragrance. Rosa Nigra is classified as an unisex scent but to my nose that applies to the first dramatic part of the fragrance. The elegant second part is more feminine. Sillage is medium and longevity good, for 24h at least.

Rating: 5

Notes: Anise, absinth, freesia, sandalwood, peach, vanilla, cashmere wood, musk, ambra

måndag 8 september 2014

Burberry - My Burberry

Picture: My Burberry
Photo: PR Burberry (c)
The latest Burberry release My Burberry, a creation by Francis Kurkdjian, is refering to the Burberry icon, the trenchcoat. The ribbon on the falcon is also in the same fabric as the trench.

My Burberry starts urban, flowery, like the smell of flowers struggeling in the asphalt jungle a rainy and chilly day ie the perfect condition to wear the Burberry, or when it comes to me, even better a John Partridge waxed coat. The metallic rose and freesia is skillfully contrasted with notes that reminds me of wet asphalt and fumes. The severe freshness of geranium is also glimpsing by. The blend is grounded in a clean patchouli in the high-tech contemporary  category and there is a pleasant, musky tartness dominating the base. I suppose musk is also in the basenote as the longevity is very good, up to 24 hours. The sillage is medium and is surrounding the wearer with a comforting but in the sametime interesting aura. Perfect for autumn but could be worn any season in any place.

My Burberry is not the typical Kurkdijan dense flower blend. This is sort of a powerful translucence, contemporary, artifical (in a good way) and high tech. Since all the IFRA restrictions many fragrances became transparant, fleeting and with inferior lastingpower. Now it seems as the transparent cathegory has received more strength and power. I guess (I'm no expert) it has do to with the technological development of fragrancecomponents due to restrictions.

Picture:  Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss
fronting 
My Burberry
Photo: PR Burberry (c)
There are notes/accords in My Burberry which reminds me about some other pleasant fragrances, both british by the way. The first one is another Burberry favorite Burberry Body (swe), with variations Body Edt and Body Tender Edt the metallic rose and the texture, from Penhaglions Vaara which is a spicy floral oriental blend, the special refreshing fruity-spicy quince-note. Compared to Burberry Body, My Burberry is easier to wear (but not less intresting), Body is sort of a more difficult character. I've to confess that I fell hard for My Burberry, the fragrance is very versatile and comforting, in tune with its time. My Burberry is ageless in style which is  consciously or unconsciously reflected  in the campaign featuring top models of two generations: Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss. One of the best releases of 2014 taken both mainstream and niche segments in consideration. This will be a contemporary classic.

Rating: 5

Notes: Sweet Pea, bergamot, mandarin, geranium, freesia, quince, rose, patchouli

torsdag 12 december 2013

Historiae - Mystic Oud

Picture: The awesome bottle of Mystic Oud
Photo: PR Historiae (c)
Mystic Oud is a contrasting fragrance in the up today classical "garden perfume" inspired line of the french niche house Historiae. Orangerie du Roy, Bouquet de Trianon, Hameau de la Reine, Rose de France and Violette Imperiale. As most of the Historiaes Mystic Oud is created by no other than the famous Bertrand Duchaufour.

Mystic Oud starts intriguing with a fruity, boozy note, probably the davana, soon followed by a pink, creamy rose which smells almost like a luxurary face creme. After a while red roses, without the creamy feel, fizzy and a bit tart the same impression as in Annick Goutal Rose Splendide (swe) but not as prounounced, joins the blend and contrasts the comfortable creamy impression. Further on the oud appears but not as the demanding note as in so many oud fragrances. In Mystic Oud it acts more as a dark, woody, contrasting note to the roses and the oud is acting balanced  together with the others in the accord. The boozy note returns darkens and intensifies in the basenotes together with a note of natural honey which lend a slight animalic character to Mystic Oud. The rosy mix is still present in the base, both the creamy pink ones and the tart red ones.

In an early stage of the developement of Mystic Oud I got strong associations to a favorite pink rose of mine, Burberry Body Edp  (swe) but overall Mystic Oud gives a rosier, cleaner and more minimalistic impression compared to Burberry Body which is more of a mixed bouquet but dominated by roses to me.  I think Mystic Oud is a proper name for this rose dominated blend as the oud is (as mentioned above) sort of hidden among the other deeper notes of the fragrance.

A welldone, and even if not the most innovative fragrance ( I find Burberry Body more innovative, maybe because it is IMHO the prototype in this contemporary rosy genre), an intriguing and in the same time comforting  rosefragrance to wear. Sillage is medium and longevity 12h +. The best of all: Mystic Oud is reasonably priced compared to most niche ouds (SEK 830, EUR 93 and USD 124) in Fragrance & Art  webshop. Mystic Oud is quity priceworthy when it comes to quality, there are far more expensive fragrances of lesser or same quality out there.

Those who like rose perfumes and ouds in the style of Ramon Monegal L'Eau de Rose, Robert Piguet Rose Perfection and  Montale Aoud Damascus (swe), I think also  will appreciate Mystic Oud.

Rating: 4

Notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, orange, rose, davana, saffron, rose, peony, geranium, clove, oud, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, castoreum, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, oak moss

torsdag 9 maj 2013

Burberry Body Edt vs Burberry Body Tender Edt

Picture: The Absinthe Drinker, 
painting  by Viktor Oliva 1901, in the Café Slavia, Prague
Wikimedia commons
There is no secret I'm a fan of the original Burberry Body Edp, IMO a very well executed mainstream fragrance with the  tangy absinthenote contrasting the heavy but somehow bright, flourishing, flowers. Since Body was released in 2011 there has been some flankers/formulas/concentrations of the fragrance. In this post I will compare two of them: The Edt version from summer 2012 and the Tendre version from this spring. Both, just as the original Body fragrance, are created by Michel Almairac.

The Burberry Body Edt starts with a sparkling appledominated accord which is fresh and inviting, not too sweet. The typical Body absinth accord is present but very subdued comparing to the original and Tendre.
But soon, on my skin anyway, Edt becomes week and I it's mostly about some pleasant but quite indistinct contemporary musky floral with some crispy applenote. After a while, my favoured absintenote comes back in the game but just as subdued as in the topnotes. In this stage it smells like it's embedded with powder, which is pleasant but not interesting enough to my critical nose. The Edt continues like that, nice and pleasant, during the rest of the dry down, adding some nice chalky notes in the base.

The Burberry Body Tender Edt is another story. It starts up with heavy on my favourite absinthe-flower accord, this time featuring a medium pink rose. There is a pleasant tartness from the absinthe and there is also like the steams and leaves of the rose have been blended with the absinthe and this further strengthens the tartness. As Body Tender dries down some of the appelnote from Body Edt appears as a contrasting, sparkling effect to the rose and absinthe. The by me favoured tart note continues during the whole drydown and deepens and get darker in the moderate musky base.

Overall the Edt version is more polite, fruitier, more powdery, weaker and the absinthenote is much tuned down compared to the Tender-version. I prefer the latter and would happily wear it as a summerBody if a bottle fell from the sky.

Rating: Burberry Body Edt : 3,  Burberry Body Tender: 4

Notes: Burberry Body Edt: Green apple, peach, absinthe, rose, sandalwood, tea, musk, cashmere woods, amber, vanilla

Burberry Body Tender: Lemon, apple, peach, absinthe, rose, tea leaves, jasmine, sandalwood, cashmere woody accords, vanilla, musk, amber

fredag 9 mars 2012

Neela Vermeire Creations - Mohur

Picture: Begum Nur Jahan (Mehrunissa) 1577-1645
Wikimedia commons

Mohur is the third fragrance that I tried from the Neela Vermeire Creation Discovery set. It's like it's companions created by Betrand Duchaufour in collaboration with the founder of the perfumehouse Neela Vermeire. Mohur will evoke images of the powerful empress Mehrunissa of the Mogul (Begum Nur Jahan)dynasty but also of the later colonial era in India.

Mohur is a beautiful pink, smooth and creamy rose blend with a almond and gentle traces of pepper, cardamom, coriander, other spices and a foamy leathery note. There is also slight woody and green touch in Mohur and in the basenotes I find a gentle proportion of the almost fresh geranium smelling oudnote from the spicy Trayeé. The oud in Mohur never overpowers the rose, they are interacting in the most harmonius way. There is also a warm and smooth sandalwood among the basenotes, I think Mysore as it has no sharp edges as the australian version.

Mohur is no sillagemonster but it stays close to the skin, unfragmented during a whole day. There is a pleasure to inhale this thick blend loaded with fine ingredients during. Even almost twelve hours after application I can smell the beautiful natural smelling roseoil. This is a fragrance for elegant daytime events and it is also appropriate for elegant summerevenings. And of course, also to cheer the wearer up a gloomy winterday. Other rosefragrances that Mohur reminds me of is Aoud Damascus by Montale, even if thar one is a bit more oudy and have a slight metallic vibe. It has also some similarities (the pink, creamy rose) to Burberry Body, but Mohur is a highquality, oriental version of Body.

Mohur is a must try for pink rose lovers!

Rating: 5

Notes: Cradamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot seeds, elemi, pepper, rose, iris, violet, jasmine, almond, leather, amber, sandalwood, oud, woody notes, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tonka been.

torsdag 23 februari 2012

Royal happiness


 
Picture: H.R.H Crownprincess Victoria and H.R.H Prince Daniel
Photo and Copyright: Kungahuset.se  (Royal Court)
 
Today is a day of joy and happiness here in Sweden. Our beloved Crown Princess Couple HRH Crownprincess Victoria and HRH Prince Daniel became parents to a little princess, the futhure heir of the throne. I had already put Burberry Body on when Mr Parfumista called and told me that Prince Daniel *)  hade something to announce at 7.00 am. If I had known I would have applied something more royal to celebrate the little Princess but I think Body is quite ok as it reminds me of pink roses in a smooth and fluffy creaminess. This happening made me recapitulate which fragrances I have worn the other special days of this nice couple:
The  engagement day February 24, 2009: Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, if I had known that morning what happy news that would be delivered I would definitly chosen something else. But on the other hand, that was the first time something really happy occured when wearing L'HB, two times when I have worn it (and I don't wear it often) sad things had happen.
The wedding day June 19, 2010: As the event was well-known (to say at least :-) in advance I could prepare for a royal spritz with Montales Highness Rose.
Now we (the royalists at least) are looking forward to the baptism of the little one later this spring. And of course I'm planning to report about this event from the same olfactory perspective :-)
*) The Prince Daniel story is the Cinderella-story of the 2000s: A young energetic man raised in a middle class family in a small municipality, moves to the capital of Sweden, get educated to be a Personal Trainer, starts an exclusive gym, becomes the PT of the Crownprincess, the business grows to a several gyms, the couple have to hide from the press and in the same time try to convince the King about their love and Daniels suitability as the consort to the future queen. After eight years, 2009, they finally got the permission to marry and where engaged. But at that time Daniel was seriously ill as he from his youth had an nonfunctional kidney and the other one was deteriorated. Luckily Daniels father Olle donated a kidney and everything went well. The wedding 2010 was like a fairytale and Daniel became HRH Prince Daniel. Today he is performing very well in this very special role. Almost all (at least the roylistic) women in Sweden loves Prince D as he seems to be the most perfect, caring, secure in himself, natural, polite, chivalrous guy one can image.  

torsdag 12 januari 2012

Cartier - Baiser Volé

Picture: Lilium longiflorum, Easter Lily.
Photo by UpstateNYer (cc), Wikimedia commons, some rights reserved

A freshly washed cashmerejumper white as snow, worn by an elegant woman in a large likewise elegant. white decorated living room. She is resting in front of the lighted fire in the marble fireplace in the center of the room. That's the image that Mathilde Laurents Baiser Volé evokes to me.

After some gentle citrusnotes and a light note of luxery detergent in the top, Baiser de Volé is a quite linear creamy, lily fragrance. If the fragrance had a texture it would be something like the showercreme of Dove. The lily is bright and crisp with a soft spiciness that feels like the natural spiciness of the lilyflower.  but in the same time it is warm, not cold as lily scents often are. The creamy aura reminds me of the creaminess of Burberry Body, but as Body features a pink rose, Baiser de Volé features the white lily.

When it comes to comparing BV to other lily fragrances I have to confess that I like it much better than Serge Lutens Un Lys. To me Un Lys is Lily of the valley and the scent is somehow fragmented and a little screamy and not as full blown as BV. Compared to the favorite lily of mine, Donna Karan Gold, Gold with it's woody- watery, dark lily notes is like a forest in the evening, with golden rays falling through the trees and something dark lurking in the background. As BV is another type of lily fragrance it has it's place even i a wardrobe already containing those.

Maybe Baiser de Volé is not the most complicated creation but on the other hand it's just lovely and cosy. And that's exactly what I need gray and chilly days. To my nose, one of the best releases among designer fragrances in 2011. I received my sample from Escentual.

Rating: 5

Notes: Citrusnoter, gröna blad, lilja/ Citrus, green notes, lily

onsdag 28 december 2011

Best of 2011

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Can't belive 2011 is almost over and it's once again time for the "Best of the year" list. By that I mean the best releases of the year, perfumes that I discovered this year but was launched earlier therefore not qualify.

To me 2011 was a quite good perfumeyear with several great releases from perfumehouses in both the niche- and designerfragrance categories. Of course I have only tested a small part of the thousends of releases on the market, but from what I have tested, here are my favourites of 2011:

There are two fragrances that shares the first place:

De Profundis (Serge Lutens): I instantly fell in love with this purple, green, serious creation with it's notes of wilting lilys and chrysantemum, lightened up by some inscense. To  my nose a very special creation that stands out from the crowd. See my review here (in swedish).

Les Nombres d'Or Oud (Mona di Orio): My other number one was on the contrary not instant love. Used to the strong Montale ouds I underapplied this the first times, but when I splashed some more on the miracle occurred: This multifaceted, woody, soft flowery, quality creation creates a peaceful aura around the lucky wearer. A perfume to relax and to dream with. Just as Mona di Orio wanted with her beautiful compositions. See my review here.

Other favorites:

Jeux de Peau (Serge Lutens): This bred and butter over a sandalwood base (like Santal Blanc) I fell for immediately. This one makes me hungry.

Week-End à Deauville (Parfums de Nicolaï): Sunny and bright lily of the vally shines in contrast to a dark green and mossy background. Retro, casual, chic in a nutshell. See my review here (in swedish).

Body (Burberry): This bold, creamy, rosy, flowery, early nineties-like creation is a true and lovely comfortscent. Perfect for grey and gloomy days. See my review here (in swedish).

Chanel no 19 Poudre: I think this is a beautiful, flowery iris on a jasmine and light orangeflower background grounded by a beautiful, light, musc that together with the iris blooms on my skin more then twelve hours after application. Can't understand different perfumesnobbish comments about Poudre as a inferior creation that collapses after the topnotes dried down. See my review here (in swedish).

Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille (Annick Goutal): Just loooove this, dark, retro, dusty, murky, earthy, plum-patch perfume. Smells somehow of old books in a long forgotten library mixed with lipstick and powder.. See my review here (in swedish).

Azemour Les Orangers (Parfum d'Empires): Orange, green and mossy notes, Azemour shows that it is still possible to create fragrances in the vein of the citrus-chypre classics of the seventies. Just great. See my review here.

Les Nombres d'Or Vétyver (Mona di Orio): Another beautiful green but here vetiver accentuated by ginger. Like Azemour above, Vétyver gives me the impression of the green fragrances of the seventies and just as Azemour, but in a different way, Vétyver reminds me of a less soapier Eau de Rochas.

Also to be mentioned 2011: L'Esprit d'Oscar (Oscar de la Renta),  Cuir Fetiche (Maître Parfumeur et Gantier), Chambre Noir (Olfactive Studio), Shalimar Initial (Guerlain), Candy (Prada), Myrrhiad (Huitieme Art).

onsdag 12 oktober 2011

Burberry - Body

Foto: Parfumista (c)

Michael Almairac och Amandine Maries radierande, modernt volymiösa, rosendominerade, lite kalla florala komposition är redan omskriven. Den annars rätt grinige Octavian ger doften beröm och Julia på Parfymbloggen tycker efter intensivt testande av Body bra om doften. Mycket av vad jag skriver blir förstås en repetition eftersom mina intryck inte skiljer sig särskilt radikalt från de nämnda skribenterna.

Body inleds med en uppskruvad, fruktig, rosa rosennot som påminner om doften av en nagelsalva som min mamma hade när jag var liten men upphöjt till hundra. Någonstans i början känner jag en mycket snabb glimt av något bittert grönt som påminner om den i Annick Goutals Rose Splendide men i Rose Splendide varar doften längre och är dessutom en av huvudrollsinnehavarna, i Body har noten bara en blygsam biroll. När Body når mellanregistert blir den lite mindre cremig och den uppvisar den moderna, mjuka kylighet som konstigt nog ändå är omhändertagande och virar in bäraren i stor komfort. Troligen spelar de mjuka chasmerean noterna in här. I mellanregistret blandas fler blommor som känns som om de står i blomsteraffärens glaskyl. Här påminner Body en del om både doft och känslan av Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose. Precis som de övriga två recensenterna får jag associationer till Lancomes Trèsor när det gäller själva doften och Guccis Rush (också av Almairac) när det gäller det radierande, nästan hysteriska uttrycket i början. I basen finns mysk och mjuka tränoter som harmonierar med rosen och de övriga blommorna på ett attraktivt sätt. Det finns inget svårt och utmanande i Body förutom möjligen den uppskruvade tonen. Trots tonläget är doften komfortabel, perfekt för en sådan regnig hösdag som det var när jag testade den. Exempelvis den jasmindominerade Burberry London Woman har trots likartad trivselkaraktär en lätt frånstötande doft av instängd kakburk som ger parfymen doften en intressant motpol. En sådan kontrast saknar Body som är en, om än skränig, rakt igenom ändå trevlig och väldoftande kreation.

Body är väl komponerad med bra balans och en mycket god hållbarhet till långt in på kvällen och delvis till morgonen därpå. Visserligen känner jag igen en del noter som är gångbara inom parfymeriet just nu men den är samtidigt nydanande, det känns som att den kommer att bli en förbild för olika efterföljare i samma stil. Body är sammantaget väldigt välgjord med en ordentlig kropp och jag uppskattar att den inte så där spöklikt flytande och försvinnande som en del dofter blivit efter IFRA anpassningar och liknande. Body måste ha gått igenom godkända tester i många fokusgrupper för det första min dotter spontant sa när hon kände Body var "Oh vilken god parfym du har". Det är nästan så jag undrar om de lagt i något tillvänjningspreparat i Body för ju mer provdagen framskred, ju mer förtjust blev jag i doften. Även dagen därpå kunde jag inte släppa doften i tanken och önskade att jag använt den en dag till. Jag kommer med glädje använda upp mitt prov som jag fått från Escentual.com Sedan finns det en uppenbar risk att jag inte kan vara utan Body. Ärligt talat trodde jag inte att jag skulle kunna bli så förtjust i en "mainstreamparfym" igen, men Burberry Body visar att det finns dofter som sticker ut även i det "ordinarie sortimentet".

Betyg: 5

Noter: Absinth, persika, freesia, ros, iris, chasmere trä, sandelträ, mysk, ambra, vanilj