Visar inlägg med etikett Aoud Roses Petals. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Aoud Roses Petals. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 6 maj 2013

Rosenotes in a haste

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Recently I have been hit by a sort of roseobsession and when reviewing Grossmith Saffron Rose I felt the urge to sniff some fragrances in the same category ie orientel styled or inspired roses and also clean rosesoliflores. Here are the impressions from what I smelled from the teststripes:

Rose Absolue (Annick Goutal): The truest and cleanest rose, mixed of rose absolues from six different rosetypes. This is like diving in an ocean of rosepetals, experience all the different facets of the scent of roses:  Fresh, green and steamy,dewy, smooth, spicy and velvety. Natural, elegant and relaxing. The reference rosesoliflore.

Taif Roses (Montale):The house of oriental styled roses is of course Montale.There are countless variations where the rose are more or less prominent compared to the other notes, usually oud. Taif Roses is a rosesoliflore, where the rose is supported with some of the leaves and steams which creates a slight rubbery note and a very light lemony note in the top.

Highness Rose (Montale): Dark, velvety, intense, lush and fresh red roses. This is THE rosesoliflore, grand in its "simple" apperance. A regal perfume.

Roses Musk (Montale): A crispy and peppery red rose blended with musk. Radiant and with a great sillage. This one has to be sparely applied.

Aoud Rose Petals (Montale): Saffron and a bright medium pink rose mixed in a delicious creamy combination refreshed by green cool geranium and anchored in a proper dose of oud and other precious woody notes.

Aoud Queen Roses (Montale): The most "perfumery" like rose fragrance in the group. Here there is a red rose which is darker, smoother and the oud  is more pronounced than in Aoud Rose Petals. A slight leathery note is also appearing, almost integrated with the dark rose.

When sniffing side by side on scentstripes there is very evident  how different the scents really are despite the common denominator the rose, and some cases also the oud. And this seems to be a general observation: Fragrances from the same family that seems to be similar when first smelled, mostly appears to be quite different when investigated more in detail.

torsdag 18 april 2013

Grossmith - Saffron Rose

Picture: Roses in a vase,
 painting by Auguste Renoir
I knew instantly when I splashed on Saffron Rose from the small vial that I would just love this stunning oriental styled rosecomposition. And Saffron Rose are just not about flattering topnotes, it is quality all the way out. Saffron Rose, created by Trevor Nicholl is a part of  the Grossmith Black Label Collection.

Saffron Roses starts with a beautiful, very clean, natural smelling pink, a bit oldfashioned, tearose. It is accuented with smooth, spicy notes of saffron and cinnamon, handled in a manner that creates a smooth, slight creamy impression of soft leather. The creamyness is in the same time dry in its texture and this accord creates a sort of chalky impression. As Saffron Rose progress in its dry down the scent is deepen in a melange of very well balanced darker resin and woody notes such as oud and myrrh. The notes are accompanying and the oud doesn't take over the composition as in most oud-rose fragrances. When Saffron Rose reaches the basenotes an almost animalc quality appears but in a subtle way. During the rest of the dry down Saffron Rose highlights the classical rose which interacting perfectly with the darker, soft spicy and woody-resin notes.

Saffron Rose wears close to the skin, the longevity is about 24h. It's a creation of understaded elegance, not as dominating and rough as many Montale rose-oud creations, Saffron Rose is more finetuned and it is a real pleasure to wear, as also the Montales depending on the mood.

Those who (like me) likes Montale Taif Rose, Highness Rose, Aoud Queen Roses, Aoud Roses Petals, Histoires de Parfum Rosam and Annick Goutal Rose Absolue I suspect also will like Saffron Rose.

Rating: 5

Notes: Rose, saffron, cinnamon, myrrh, oud, tobacco, wood, labdanum, castoreum, sandalwood, amber, guaiac wood

Thanks to Fragrances & Art for the sample to test.

lördag 3 mars 2012

Spring fragrances - Winter-Spring

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

Last week in The Scented Salamander Marie-Helene heralds the spring with eight fragrances. In the post she divides spring into it's different stages: Winter-Spring, Spring-Spring, Spring-Summer and the odd category Spring-Fall as she found the new L.I.LY from Stella McCartney to contains elements from both spring and fall.

As there is still basicly winter here in this nordic country, but with some spring like days in between, I will choose fragrances for the first category Winter-Spring, fragrances that fits the transition between winter and spring. Later on when we reach the Spring-Spring and Spring-Summer stages, I will post about frags which I crave for then.

Picking 10 for Spring-Winter:

Rive Gauche (YSL): Chilly and bright aldehydes is perfectly illustrating this time of the year. There is power in the rosy, metallic, aldehydic scent while it protends the milder days to come.

Chanel No 5 (Chanel): The icy marble of this aldehydic beauty perfectly fits in time of the breakup of the ice.

De Bachmakov (The Different Company): Have to second Marie-Helene in this choice. Bright, icy, herbals and some citrus with booze. Perfectly recalls my image of the defrosting thundra in Siberia.

Hiris (Hermès): This cold and as I image it, dark-blue, flowery iris is perfectly matching the high, bright and chilly air of the winter-spring season.

Chanel No 19 Poudré (Chanel): Another flowery iris but here it is interpreted as a powdery and musky, light green scent.

Donna Karan Gold (Donna Karan): Spicy, a slight metallic and cold lily over damp soil which defrosts in the sun. But it als has a darkness, as the chilly starlit evenings in the late winter.

Vol de Nuit (Guerlain): Even if not expressed as a cold fragrance it's classical aldehydic, iris-flowery, mossy-sandalwoody structure mediate the image of the starlit sky in a late winter evening. Just as Gold but in another way.

Ensence et Lavande (Serge Lutens): Clean lavender interacting with clean incense in a timeless, calming blend. I image the contrasting warmth from incense burning inside an ancient stone church with the chilly late winter wind outside.

Dzongkha (L'Artisan Parfumeur): The coldness and high air in the Himalyan mountins is perfectly captured in this bottle of cardamom, iris, incense, the and vetiver. Bertrand Duchaufour is truly a master, despite of his speed-creating in recent years.

Aoud Rose Petals (Montale):  A little warmth is also needed to balance the cold fragrances out. Since several years I have found that I crave for this distinctive pink, rosy, oud, saffron blend in the Winter-Spring.

måndag 14 mars 2011

Montale - Aoud Roses Petals

Foto: Parfumista (c)
Aoud Roses Petals tillhör de tidigare dofterna från huset Montale. För mig är ARP sinnebilden av mellanrosa rosenblad vars olja destilieras tillsammans med saffran. Den inre biografen visar också ett vackert mellanrosa sidentyg kantat med guldbroderier och använt till en kostbar sari.

Rosa ros och saffran är den dominerande kombon i ARP även om den så klart vilar en typisk, lite medicinskt, montalsk oudbas. På något sätt ger ARP ett lite kyligt intryck trots att saffran egentligen är en varm krydda. Kanske är det pepprigheten från cederträet men detsamma har jag upplevt i Arabian Ouds saffran och rosenolja Rahil Blend även om den är mörkare än ARP. Det finns också något lätt grönt i doften. ARP är ljusare och kvinnligare än den mörka Black Oud med sin mörka ros och patchouli.

ARP är linjär i uppbyggnaden och den dofter alltså rätt lika under doftens utveckling. Ändå är den inte tråkig utan går in och ut i noterna. Den är helt enkelt väldigt trivsam och en riktig handledsmangnet som jag mest tycker kommer till sin rätt under vår och sommar.

Betyg: 5

Noter: Ros, saffran, oud, cederträ och guaiacträ