Visar inlägg med etikett Angelique Noir. Visa alla inlägg
Visar inlägg med etikett Angelique Noir. Visa alla inlägg

måndag 18 augusti 2014

Carner Barcelona - El Born

Picture: Mercat del Born (Barcelona)
Photo: Maria Rosa Ferre (cc) ,
Wikipedia commons, some rights reserved
El Born is the latest addition in the Carner Barcelona line which is inspired  from different parts/aspects/moods and of course scents from Barcelona, both from the present and the past. El Born is inspired from the streetlife, scents and views of the old, touristcrowded El Born quarters, surrounding the market place.

El Born starts with slight citrusy and tart herbal notes contrasting to sweet, edible, pastry notes, the angelicanote is not as obvious as in Guarlain Angelique Noir it's a more of a light weight interpretation. After a while a delicious smell of a dry almondcake appears, it's not the liqueur-like amarettonote, this is the note of ground almonds for a cake. The fignote is not the lush fruity one of for example Diptyque Philosykos, the fig is more of the leaves and the tree, with something dry that reminds me of a smoother and lighter version of the fig-peppery combination of Neela Vermiere Creations Ashoka. In this stage, El Born as a whole, rests in a balsamic, light spicy comfort.

In the basenotes the balsamic-resin comfort still consists and a smooth, even if a bit peppery, sandalwood emerges. There is also an unexpected twist with an accord which smells slight liquirice/anice-like (even if not present as notes) and which add a contrasting chill in the warm balsamic base. This anicelike reminds me of a similar treatment of the note; it reminds me of the base of Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli but in the latter, the anice-like aspect is interacting with patchouli instead of balsam and soft woody/spicy notes. The longer El Born dries down, the more I smell the connection to Mistral Patchouli.

Picture: El Born
Photo: PR Carner Barcelona (c)
El Born is a very good representative of the comforting, contemporary, casual, chic style of  Carner Barcelona. To my nose El Born in style most resembles the light spicy, sort of café-atmospheric Rima XI. Just like these comforting scents, El Born is easy to like, smooth as cashmere, a true wrist sniffer with an almost calming influence on the wearer, at least if the wearer is me. The slilage is close, the longevity for over a day and its suitable both for casual (a perfect perfume for shopping, with a break at some fashionable café) and to comfort duirng a though day in the office. Even if the warm and comforting character makes it well suited for autumn and winter it also smelled great during the hot, humid summerdays when I tested El Born. To finsh the praise: The more I try El Born, the more I like it. It's not love at first sniff but this fragrance wins in the long run.

Other fragrances that reminds me od El Born in their style is The Different Company Oriental Lounge (swe) and Frederic Malle Dries van Noten but I percieve El Born as less sweet than the latter.

Rating: 5

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, angelica, honey; fig, heliotrope, benzoin, jasmine, vanilla, peru balsam, sandalwood, musk

torsdag 10 oktober 2013

Guerlain - Rose Barbare

Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)
Rose Barbare is created 2005 by Francis Kurkdjian for the Guerlain L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare were one of the first three released fragrances of the line, the other was Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir all created by different for the occasion specially, by Guerlain invited perfumers. As an admirer of complex roseperfumes, Rose Barbare is the fragrance I most appreciate in the L'Arte et la Matiere line. Rose Barbare is a gourmand rose, just as all the fragrances of the L'Arte et la Matiere line is oriented towards the gourmand theme.

Rose Barbare opens with an accord of a creamy and intense pink rose accentuated with greenery. After a while the fragrance deepens in darker notes of patchouli and wood. In this stage with the dark and deep notes, Rose Barbare shows similarities with another Francis Kurkdjian composition, Lady Vengeance from Juliette Has A Gun. The creamy, honyed accord in Rose Barbare, remains and soften the composition during the whole dry down. The concept with the flower embedded in a smooth creamy texture is also used in Cruel Gardenia in the same perfumeline.  There is also an almost vintage touch of Rose Barbare, passages during the development that reminds me of a classy, vintage perfume.

Rose Barbare is an elegant perfume. Just as its siblings in the L'Arte et la Matiere line Rose Barbare is very comfortable, interesting and absolute beautiful. In the same time it's uncomplicated and easy to wear and I suspect that this is a bestseller. Combing those factors is a true work of art and creates a classic. Rose Barbare is a perfect companion for festive events but also to brighten up a gloomy day. Sillage is medium and longevity 24h+.

Rose Barbare would be appreciated by those who like rose scents in the range from  moderate to dark. For example Rose de Nuit and Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens, Une Rose by Parfums Edition Frederic Malle, Eau Suave by Parfume d'Empires and Roses Musk by Montale.

Rating: 5

Notes: Aldehydes, rose, honey, fenugreek, patchouli, wood

måndag 7 oktober 2013

Guerlain – Angelique Noir

Angelique Noir is one of the first fragrances of the Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere Collection. Angelique Noir is created by perfumer Daniela Andrier in 2005.

Angelique Noir starts with a sweet almost almondcake, counterbalanced by a dry fresh hay like note, like newly mown hay. In the background a deep, dark flower is lurking together with a contrasting, almost crispy, flowery note, similar to the note of freesia. The dark, flowery mix is very sweet but not cloying at all. Angelique Noir is very thick in texture, like a viscous, dark liquid or a black, heavy, velvet robe. Indeed, this could be a dark, fallen angel. The angelica note seems to be very concentrated compared with for example the transparent angelicanote in Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Musc where it seems to be used more as a sweet, herbal-spicy, flower accent. A fine vanilla note is counterbalancing the dark, slight herbal-spicy flowery notes and the gourmand accord created seems almost edible.

Angelique Noir is a fragrance of it’s own, there are not many of it’s like. It’s a sweet but balanced with dry notes, floral gourmand oriental and as the skilful composes fragrances Angelique Noir is, it’s never being cloying in spite of it’s dark sweetness.

Angelique Noir is an elegant comfort scent, perfect for the cold and dark autumn and winter. Sillage is medium and longevity about 24h.

As I can remember, I haven’t tried any fragrance that is close to Angelique Noir so far. Even if not smelling the same fragrances in the same spirit as Angelique Noir are:  Dior Addict (old version), Tom Ford Black Orchid, and Guerlain Insolence Edp but also fragrances in the, form the former fragrances different style, as Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui and The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit.

Rating: 5

Notes: Angelica, red berries, pear, caraway, jasmine, vanilla, cedar