måndag 24 juni 2019

Peonies

Picture: A summerview from Stockholm Old City
Photo: Parfumista (c) photo from exactly
 a year ago, 24 June 2018
 
Even if I have no beautiful peonies in the garden I'm now (after the midsummerevening choice of Penhaligon's Peveone) into testing peonyperfumes. There are only two of them in my collection, the other one is Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine (VP). I was wearing VP yesterday and just as Peveone VP, at least from the later part of the heartnotes and in the basenotes, is mostly a pink rose perfume. The rose in VP is light, pastel tuned pink, whereas Peveone is dark pink. VP is dry compared to Peveone which is lush, juciy and showing up its beauty in a composition that creates the image of a warm, humid summerevening. VP is dry and chilly, understated, the peonies and roses ar accompanied with a wellbalanced dose of pinkpepper and cedarwood. There is a light touch of fruit which doesn't become sweet. VP is the image of peonies a grey, chilly and windy summerday. There is something, probably the rosewater and the chilly feeling, with VP that reminds me of an easy to wear rosefavorite of mine: Coquillete Tudor.
 
The notes of Vert Pivoine are (according to Fragrantica): Peony, ivy leaves, rose water, rose, gardenia, mimosa, red fruit, sandalwood, cedar, musk, vanilla.
 
The notes of Peveone are (according to Fragrantica): Violet leaf,, jasmine, rose, peony, vetiver, musk, chasmeran

lördag 22 juni 2019

Peoneve

Picture: The pink rosebud of yesterday
has unfolded during the midsummernight
Photo: Parfumista (c)

For the evening yesterday I switched fragrance to Penhaligon's Peoneve and it tangy, bitter peony (i a good way)combined with the pink rosy smell was great for Midsummer. This time the scent of peony dominated over the rose, usually it is the opposite.

fredag 21 juni 2019

Midsummer 2019




Picture: Midsummerroses with some sage
Photo: Parfumista (c)

Midsummer 2019 is warmer then last year, about 20 C + and cooling windy after the heat followed by tunder and (sadly just) a little rain, of yesterday. Have not still decided what to wear, last year midsummer I was wearing the quite heavy Halfeti   from Penhaligon's, this year I hesitate between wearing something light, slight woody and fresh or something matching a garden in full bloom.


When it comes to the former theme I think about  Yuzu Ab Irato from Parfumerie Generale, I'm having a PG crush for the latest weeks. Yuzu Ab Irato is refreshing with a damp, wet, slight woody, herbal accord suported by citric and restrained cold flowers. The dampness reminds me of something that could be an easy to wear, casual, bright and summery sibling to the dramatic wintery/early spring BeauFort Fathom V. 


The fragrance for the latter theme, the blooming garden, is depitched by Penhaligon's lush (mostly) dark pink rosy, peonyfragrance Peoneve, which of course, in a traditional view, is more appropriate for THE summerday of summerdays.


During the writing of this entry I started to really crave for Yuzu Ab Irato and had to apply some.
The choice is now obvious. Sometimes some structuring of thoughts has to be done to reveal the real craving of the day.


Happy Midsommer!




Picture: A pink Queen Elizabeth
Photo: Parfumista (c)


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måndag 22 april 2019

Easter in Guerlain

Picture: Easter Egg, with no resemblance
to the fragrances worn….
Photo: Parfumista (c)
And here are my Guerlain choices for the second part of Easter 2019....
 
Easter Eve: Encens Mythique D'Orient - I know that EMD'O is a high quality and well blended perfume but it doesn't team up well with my skinchemistry, at least not when heavily overapplied, applied five tiny spritzes and even if I tried to wash it off, it lingered like a second skin. I'll try only one spritz to do it justice another day. Starts with an interesting accord of cedar, spices that creates that almost eletrical note or dust on warm a light bulb note that is present in Mona di Orios Carnation and Téo Cabanel Kasar. After that I lost contact with EMD'O, it becomes an unstructured muddle of spice, rose and woody notes. But I don't give up that easy, the notes are just my cup of tea and I'll conquer EMD'O sooner or later.
 
Easter Sunday: Apres l'Ondee Edt - A comforting and calming perfume experience compared with the suffocating experience on Easter Eve. Starts with a beautiful, clean, earthy, slight carrot-y irisaccord, after a while violet, anis and heliotrope joins and Apres l'Ondee smells just like the outdoor precursor to L'HB as it also is. Not as powdery and indoor as L'HB, elegant casual and almost fresh. A happy fragrance unlike L'HB.
 
Easter Monday: L'Heure Bleue Edt - As mentioned above, the more powdery, lipstick, deeper and darker variation along the iris-violet-anis-heliotrope theme which isalso  the core of Apres l'Ondee. In L'HB there is also neroli that combined with carnation and balsamic notes creates a more dramatic and sophisticated style than the cheerful Apres l'Ondee. L'HB is melancholy, beautiful and intriguing, one has to take time with this, it's not an easy fragrance. I tested the Edt version today to compare with Apres l'Ondee which also is in Edt. The Edt (vintage from 1989) has a great radiance and longevity, when it comes to Guerlain the Edt and Edp formulas are different variations of the fragence with some differences in notes/accords. It's not som much about strenght and longevity.
 
Wearing Guerlain for six days is not at all boaring, on the contrary, I'll explore the fragrances further.


lördag 20 april 2019

Easter in....

Picture: Spring, Easter and Scilla´s in the garden
Photo: Parfumista (c)

 
This year I was pondering of what the theme for my Easterposting should be. Earlier years the theme almost always has been appropriate fragrances for Easter in the (to my nose) for the occasion appropriate fragrancesgroups gourmand, incense and green. As late as this Wednesday I had no clue what theme to choose when suddenly it stood all clear derived from my SOTD that day Mitsouko Edt: Fragrances from the honorable house of Guerlain should be the Eastertheme.

Wednesday (almost Easter): Mitsouko Edt (semivintage from 2001): This is a light sort of carefree Mitosuko, almost easy to wear. The typical peachy, spicy accord is cleaner, brighter, higher on the fragrance notescale and not as multifaceted  as the Edp. The latter could  sometimes, especially with a spritz to much applied, be perceived as almost muddled. The basenotes of the Edt, at least in this version, is dominated from an uplifting and pleasant note of vetiver. I think this verion of Mitisi is truly unisex.

Maundy Thursday: Rose Nacree du Desert - Starts like a green, elegant rose with also  the greenery botteled. Than it evolves to a radiating still very elegant creamy, clean rosy chypre with vintage vibes, if it had a color it would be powdery light salomonpink. When wearing RNdD I come to think of another elegant contemporary chypre Sisley Soir de Lune even if that one is deeper, heavier and more of a evening fragrance, whereas RNdD is a daytime fragrance.

Good Friday: La Petite Robe Noir Couture - Yesterday was very pleasant like I was wrapped in a delicious dessert during the whole day. Not too sweet if moderatly applied, with  just a few spritzes the earthy base with patchouli and vetiver are more present. Excellent longevity, even now  I can smell the pleasant notes of  cherry liqueur and patchouli on my wrists. To me it really smells cherry even if the berry in the notelist is raspberry.
 
 I will continue with a post about the fragrances for the last three days of this Easter on Monday.

Happy Easter!
 

 

tisdag 16 april 2019

In memory of Notre-Dame....

Picture: Notre-Dame Paris
Photo: Tristan Nitot (cc) some rights reserved
Wikimedia commons
….as we know her.

This morning I wanted to honour the Grand Dame of Paris and therefore choose an appropriate fragrance to remember this fascinating spiritual and cultural heritage. The SOTD was obvious:
Opus 1144 from UNUM/Filippo Sorcinelli, a fragrance inspired from the gotic era which was started approximately 1144. The fragrance is inspired from the stone in the cathedrals and the grey skies of Normandy, a birthplace for the Gotic style and Culture.

Opus 1144 is a lovely oriental styled perfume, comforting and cherishing, a Shalimar wrapped in a fluffy, creamy lemony note. What I don't understand is; where is the connection to the gothic era and the chatedrals? When I'm wearing Opus 1144 I come to think of the art deco style of the 1920s. Instead I'm associate Rosa Nigra from the same brand to medieval style and  atmosphere. This is some of the allure with perfume, different people have different associations. Positive news in this disaster are that two of the dominating luxury conglomerates will donate huge amounts to rebuild Notre-Dame and as a consequence, indirectly, we as parfumistas are also contributing. 

måndag 25 mars 2019

Puredistance - Aenotus



Picture: The visual feeling of Aenotus,
watercolor of Marleen Molenaar
PR Puredistance (c)
Aenotus is the just launched perfume from one of the most exclusive perfumehouses, Dutch  Puredistance. Aenotus is the result from an over three year long creative process where the founder of Puredistance, Jan Ewoud Vos, together with perfumer Antoine Lie, created the signature fragrance for Jan Ewoud. The name Aenotus is made-up by Jan Ewoud, inspired from the greek mythology and more precisely, Aeolus  the god of the winds.  Based from testing performed by both Mr Parfumista and me, I can tell the name definitely is suitable for this airy contemporary  citrus-aromatic creation.

The very first impression when spritzing Aenotus is the high quality and seamless blending of the ingreditents. This is of course the sign of all the Puredistance perfums and becomes obvious in a minimalistic and clean construction as Aenotus. The perfume (Aenotus, like the whole Puredistance line, is close to the skin, extrait formulas) starts with an accord of a very natural smelling lemon, a lemon with depth and a soft roundness, probably a contribution from the complementing orange fruits. There is also a note reminicent of lime. A glimpse of fresh minty leaves appears followed by a very light and well behaved touch of the moist, watery greeness of  one of my  favorite green fragrances Beaufort Fathom V (whereas Fathom V is not well behaved ). I also got a short impression of vintage Eau de Rochas and Mr Parfumista also smells a glimpse of vintage Bowling Green from Geoffrey Beene. Further in the dry down, a shining, white, dry chalky note appears, wrapping Aenotus in a soft rounded aura, not soapy at all, it conjures a similar smooth texture and feeling. There is also a spritzy dry, blond woody, peppery accord, probably from the black currant buds combined with mint and the musks in the base. The peppery effect is quite distinct on Mr Parfumista and Aenotus on his skin becomes reminiscent of a softer luxuary sibling to Hermès Eau de Citron Noir.

In the basenotes Aenotus is stronger on the musks and a sort of dry sunwarmed woody peppery accord amplifies when it comes to Mr Parfumista wheras my skin brings out more of chalky and minimalistic, contemporary mossy notes, even if some of that special woody/peppery accord is also there. Several testings of Aenotus confirms that the performance of the fragrance is very sensitive to the wearers skinchemistry and also to the dosage.  When I'm wearing Aenotus there is an impression in the baseaccord, maybe the mossy note, that reminds me of  the "scenery" (not the scent itself, except fragments of the mossy note) of Pierre Guillaumes beautiful contemporary, mossy Papyrus de Ciane.  Also there is something in common with the mossy musk in Chloé Nomade, even if  Nomade as a fragrance is different, it's floral and sweet compared to Aenotus. When I'm wearing Aenotus glimpses of the citron is still there, also in the base. On Mr Parfumista the base is more onedimensional, like a thicker and smoother, sunwarmed, dry, peppery wood à la Hermès Citron Noir. As I've smelled Aenotus projecting more times from Mr Parfumista than from myself,  Citron Noir is altogether the fragrance that most comes to my mind when evalutating Aenotus.

Picture: Aenouts in its elegant packing
in different sizes, 17,5 ml, 60 ml, 100 ml.
Photo: PR Puredistance (c)
Wearing Aenotus is comfortable but still intriguing as the fragrance triggers differnt associations, to other fragrances and also to the context of the fragrance. Imagines like a cooling breeze a sunny spring or early summerday by the sea with sun and a clear blue sky are the first impression. When leaving the direct seaside, scents from the rural landscape appears like greenery, woods and moss.

Aenotus is a versatile fragrance, it's suitable for daytime wearing year around. It's an understated and officefriendly perfume which wears close to skin. If properly applied of course, the rich formula allows only a few tiny spritzes, if overapplied it could  be almost suffocating. Longevity 24h + even if moderate applied. Compared to other aromatic fragrances, which in comparison often seems "thin" in texture, Aenoutus is multifaceted with a full texture, and something as rare as an aromatic fragrance in perfume formula. Even if Aenotus is a unisex fragrance leaning to the masculine side, I'm planning to wear it anyway and I'm certain I'll exploring new facetts and impressions. To be continued.

Notes: Orange, mandrin, lemon, yuzu, mint, blackcurrant bud, petitgrain, oakmoss, patchouli, musks

Thanks to Puredistance for the sample to test

torsdag 21 februari 2019

Fragrances for late winter

The late winter, with spring around the corner, is the perfect season for a true parfumista: One day I'm carving a light and bright springfragrance and the other day a deep and dark oriental and the third day something in between. Below some nice frags from this week:

Picture: Prada (Amber)
Photo: PR Prada (c)
Prada (Prada): My bottle is from 2005 it's before Prada added "Amber" to the name. The perfect dark and embracing contemorary oriental with a rounded patchouli paired with amber and some vanilla.
Picture: Geranium Bourbon
Photo: PR Miller Harris (c)
Geranium Bourbon (Miller Harris): Green, dry, sunny, airy, with an austere and clean geranium flower note. A natural scent, like a garden a cool and windy summerday. Vintage in style but timeless anyway. Somehow GB resembles the intriguing Rose Noir in a bright version.

Picture: Aurore Nomade
Photo: PR The Different Company (c)
Aurore Nomade (The Different Company): A very special high quality, boozy, flowery, gourmand oriental with banana and rum accords. Warm and opulent, almost tasty. Comforting.
Picture: Galop d'Hermès
Photo: PR Hermès (c)

Galop d'Hermès (Hermès): The ulitmate rose-leather with the special addition of quince. Reminds me of a strictly and colder variation of Penhaligon's warm and spicy quince rose Vaara. Very classy and elegant.

Picture: Iris des Champs
Photo: PR Houbigant (c)

Iris des Champs (Houbigant): A light purple and grey fragrance. Starts with a delicious rooty iris then develops to a cloud of cold flowers with iris and lily of the valley as protagonists. Daytime springlike elegance.

lördag 5 januari 2019

Side by side test of....

....some Coco variations. I wanted to compare Coco Mad EDT with Coco Mad EDP and Coco Mad Intense EDP. As I had a fourth spot free, I also spritzed Coco Noir EDP even if that one probably should be compared with the original Coco's, especially the ETP.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle EDT
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Coco Mademoiselle EDT: Sort of pink fluffy, girly Coco Mad variation. It's like fluffy cotton on the plant growing on the cottonfield with the smell of dry soil a sunny summerday. This outdoor accord is also combined with a touch of what I imagine as fresh picked strawberries on a straw.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)
Coco Mademoiselle EDP: This is the ladylike Coco Mad variation. Flowers over a tangy, slight fruity accord, some green cold steems like the stems of bulbflowers. This chic and chilly bouquet is anchored in the patchoulibased Noveau Chypre accord, where the patchouli is just a part of the mix, it doesn't stand out as a dominant note. It's still daytime and sun with the EDP but colder outside, like spring or early fall.

Picture: Coco Mademoiselle Intense EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)

Coco Mademoiselle Intense EDP: In the dark Intense version an elegant velvet patchouli wrapped in some restrained amber is the protagonist. The flowers are not recognizable as an own accord, they are blended with the dark notes, creating a glimmering edge which comes up to the surface now and then. An comfortable and elegant perfume for evening or cold days in fall or Winter. Not as ladylike as the EDP, this is more the boho chic style. Reminds me in style of Prada Amber.

Picture: Coco Noir EDP
Photo: PR Chanel (c)


Coco Noir EDP: When compared directly to the Coco Mad there is obvious that Coco Noir has it's background in another branch of the Coco family tree. Elegant, light spicy with a distinct retro smell, the opening reminds me of a classic parfume which I could not place right now. I come to think of a resting in a backyard  garden in the shadows of the medival walls of an Mediterranean  ancient town a hot summerday. Noir is for the effortless, stylish globetrotter.