måndag 12 september 2016

Ormonde Jayne - Vanille d'Iris

Picture: Iris Germanica (Deutsche Schwertlilie)
Drawing by Franz Eugen Köhler, 1897
Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen,
Wikimedia commons
Vanille d'Iris is a 2015 release from Ormonde Jayne created by Geza Schon.

Vanille d'Iris starts with an iris with an light, fresh carrotnote, like from a tin and small carrot "priemeur", harvested in the early summer. After a while Vanille d'Iris becomes more flowery, the carrot disappears as in most irisfragrances which are starting up with the rooty accord which gives an intriguing and sort of fresh, despite the earthy connction, impression for the irisgenre. After a while a non-sweet vanilla shows up and it reminds me of the chalky vanilla of Parfums de Nicolaï Vanille Tonka. The iris as the protagonist among other florals which dominates the heart and reminds me in style of the Le Galion Iris and Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile even if both these fragrances are more lush, flowery and warmer in apperance. Vanille d Iris goes quickly through the flowery phase but iris is also clearly evident in the woody-green accord of the basenotes , reminding me of a contemporary iris-woody classic as Heely Iris de Nuit. The iris in the base is balanced by a clean vetiver as also a barely detectable vanilla, adds an opposing smoothess which, together with a light glowing amber, almost precisely placing Vanille d'Iris just over the border in the feminine iris territory. But Vanille d'Iris is perfectly wearable for men who likes for example Dior Homme where the lipstick texture actually is more feminine in style than the subtle vanilla/amber addition in Vanille d'Iris.The base is also lightly infused with a clean but not powdery or soapy musk which higlights the other notes and makes the fragrance last for long.

Picture: Vanille d'Iris
Photo: PR Ormonde Jayne (c)
Vanille d'Iris is a good, elegant, "basic iris" wearable year around. It doesn't bring anything new to the genre but is well crafted and well worth  sampling if searching for a(nother) basic iris. It's a perfect office fragrance if carfully applied as it's a strong formula which despite its clean character could be overbearing if to much is spritzed, three-four spritzes is the limit. Longevity is very good about 24h, sillage is heavy.

Those who likes irises in general both flowery and woody, will probably also like Vanille d'Iris.

Rating: 4

Notes: Coriander, bergamot, carrot seed, pink pepper, oris, jasmine, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus, vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver, amber, musk

Thanks to Fragrance & Art for the sample to test

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