måndag 22 juni 2015

Arquiste - Quick Impressions 1(3)

Picture: Mendoza Codex depicting the mexican coat of arms16th century, Wikimedia Commons
The samples I ordered of some fragrances from the (at least five years ago) hyped Arquiste-line has somehow been forgotten. I start with some quick impressions of two fragrances inspired of Mexico, the homecountry of Carlos Huber the founder of the house of Arquiste.

Anima Dulcis: Inspired of the scent of exotic spices which floats throughout the halls of the Royal Convent of Jesus Maria, Mexico City in November 1695, where a group of nuns prepares a Baroque recipe of Cocoa infused with an assortment of chiliesStarts with an intersting, dirty, animalc blast of cumminlike notes over butterscotch follwed by a gentler soft, woody peppery phase in the style of Yves Saint Laurent Nu Edp and also with elements from Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere. Then it softens into a dark, almost slight minty, choco and nice vanilla with some polite notes of fiery pepper popping up from time to time. The longer in the dry down, the more the vanilla appears. An easy to wear contemporary gourmand-oriental with close sillage and longevity for about 24 h..

Flor y Canto: Inspired of the flowers offered on the temple altars of the Aztecs in August 1400 in Tenochtitlan, Flor y Canto starts heavy with the almost burnt butterscotch accord present. The butterscotch is blended with a tubereuse which is bubblebath-soapy at first but than deepens into a creamier one, in texture just as mediumpink velvet. As a tuberoselover this butterscotch-tuby version attracts me into half of its dry down but then it strangly weekens, blends with a lighter mangnolia note and after that does not regain the dense, velvety, buttery tubey from the heart. The silage is close and the longevity, just as when it comes to Anima Dulcis for about 24h. Even if the scent weakens, it's very pleasant to wear and it growes with each wearing. Wearing Flor y Canto is also a great way  to receive compliments.

2 kommentarer:

  1. I've enjoyed your impressions of the Arquiste line, Margareta, as I've only tried a couple -- Boutonniere No. 7, which is like a marriage between a gardenia flower and a traditional cologne, and Anima Dulcis, which I loved enough to purchase a bottle. And what you say of the latter - about you seeing a connection to Nu at one point in its development - yes, you're so right! I hadn't noticed that until I read your impression, but now that you say it, I can see the parallel.

  2. Glad you liked the reviews. I havn't tested B... No 7, only the earliest releases. From what I have read about the line B No 7 together with Anima Dulcis seems to be the most appreciated.