|Picture: Scent stripes|
Photo: Parfumista (c)
First some theme-oriented scentstrips: The intention was to compare immortelle notes which then devolved to compare immortelle and boozy notes.
Sables (Annick Goutal) The starting point was of ocurse the role model of immortelle, Sables. This rough and salty immortelle is the image of dunes, wooden boats and docks, the soggy and slaty air at seaside.
Cuir Beluga (Guerlain) Refined luxurry immortelle combined with the softest, light suedenote ever. Pure delight!
1740 Marquis de Sade (Histoires de Parfums) The immortelle is here and working together with leathery/balsamic notes makes a true dark, cognac, boozy impression appearing.
Speakeasy (Frapin) Of course 1740 MdS had to be compared with the lighter boozy immortelle Speakeasy. On scentstripe the minty note is very prominent compared to what I percieve when wearing it, worn it's more of leathery-dark rum.
After this immortelle study, we went on for a "similar in style and expression but contemporary vs old school" study when I once again complained about the discontinuing of the great contemporary chypre
Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille (Annick Goutal) testing the less radiant and somehow denser Edp. MPCpC IMO is the best AG so far, dark, deep patchy- plummy, a contemporary Femme Fatal and as such clean compared to its (as I belive) role model:
Femme (Rochas) testing an old Edp of the 1989 version, dark, plummy and spicy, predominantly cummin which lends it just the right slight animalic skanky aura. This is perfume at its best, outdoing most of the current niche offerings.
Talking about current niche offerings, we went further to a great and at the moment hyped one:
Iris Nazarena (Aedes de Venustas) Mr Parfumista has complained this smelling "old man and Brut" on me but I suspecting he's just plotting to take over my sample of it. On the scentstripe the smooth, rooty-iris-carrot note is very pleasant and later on, maybe there is a hint of a refined Fabergé Brut. When Mr Parfumista wears Iris Nazarena the day after it smells like on the scentstripe. Maybe I let him have the sample after all...Unfortunately it seeems to be the same as with Mona di Orio Violette Fumée, I really appreciate the fragrance and want to wear it but Mr Parfumista wears it much better :-(
Finally to the antithesis of niche: My mother had handed over an interesting sample to me:
Oud (Alyssa Ashley) interesting because I'm interested to find out how a "budget-oud" is smelling and the answer is: Faint and fleeting, syntetical, dark woody fragrance with a slight almondy note. This note also appears in expensive nicheofferings but with more dept and accompained with more notes and nuances. In the Alyssa Ashley Oud interpretation it's somehow a flat soli-note. Not a bad perfume but nothing engaging either.