Picture: A cacao tree with fruit pods in various stages of ripening.
Photo: Medicaster, (cc) Wikmedia commons, some rights reserved.
Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse is the first installment in the Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse triology, created by the HdP house founder the ISIPCA-graduated Gérald Ghislain and Magali Senequier ( I think). The Tubereuse triology is a suite of different interpretations of tubereuse or more precise, perfumes with tubey as the common denominator but not necessarily tubereuse as the dominant note of the composition.
I have tested and reviewed (in swedish) T 1 Capricieuse almost two years ago. At that time I didn't caught its features and rated it as a slight more than good fragrance but it didn't really moved me at that time. Maybe I rushed through the sample too fast, because now I really like this interesting iris-suede-coca-tubey blend. T 1 Capricieuse starts as a almost pure iris fragrance with the typical metallic, iris rooty note but without almost any nuances of carrot. The opening notes reminds me of Chanel No 19 Poudré and Heeley Iris de Nuit minus the carrot note. Then a note similar to Björnklister "Bear-glue", a white glue for paper that was common in my childhood, tunes in. Nostalgic-pleasant in some way. After a while the gluenote turns into a suede note dusted with coca powder and a muted tubereuse tunes in very discrete. As the blend dries down the flowery, coca, suede blend somehow intensifies in a beautiful, almost gourmand accord. This stage is very pleasant and the stayingpower is superior, it lasts until the next morning. I suspect that I applicated to little when I condemned the stayingpower two years ago.
As a whole T 1 Capricieuse reminds me of the iris-suede Mythique by Parfums DelRae but the latter is more graceful, transparent and flowing than the more robust T 1 Capricieuse. Mythique is also an iris-suede without the tubeynote that makes T 1 Capricieuse warmer and with an almost mellow vibe.
T 1 Capricieuse is the perfect officeperfume, wearable year around except the hottest summerdays.
Notes: Saffron, bergamott, mandarine, iris, ylang-ylang, tubereuse, cacao, musk, suede